Getting spark to number one cylinder but not running on number one cylinder. just put new head gasket on and reset the valves still no power to number one cylinder
These engines have a two barrel carb and if one side is not working correctly it will cause only one cylinder to work.
Mine lost power and would only run with the choke full on. Instead of rebuilding I replaced the carb. Didn't fix the issue so I wrongly thought it was elsewhere since the carb was new right? I replaced a coil, fuel pump, fuel lines, spark plugs, adjusted valves, performed compression test, both at 120 so no issues there.
Finally went back to my original thought and pulled the new carb off and opened it up. One of the jets had a piece of debris stuck in it that was the same material that the float was made of.
After clearing it put it back together and bingo. Runs like a champ. These are picky with the carbs so I would start there.
I would make real sure it is clean and fully functional before going to the expense of trying to run down a problem elsewhere.
Hope my experience helps.These engines have a two barrel carb and if one side is not working correctly it will cause only one cylinder to work.
Mine lost power and would only run with the choke full on. Instead of rebuilding I replaced the carb. Didn't fix the issue so I wrongly thought it was elsewhere since the carb was new right?
I replaced a coil, fuel pump, fuel lines, spark plugs, adjusted valves, performed compression test, both at 120 so no issues there.
Finally went back to my original thought and pulled the new carb off and opened it up. One of the jets had a piece of debris stuck in it that was the same material that the float was made of.
After clearing it put it back together and bingo. Runs like a champ. These are picky with the carbs so I would start there.
I would make real sure it is clean and fully functional before going to the expense of trying to run down a problem elsewhere.
Hope my experience helps.
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if you changed the coil and spark plug. the only thing left is the valves or head gasket. put a compression gauge on that cylinder and see if it holds compression. if not you may have a valve stuck or not seating properly, a broken push rod, or a blown head gasket. all are easy to fix and relatively cheap. just fixed one the other day. broken push rod. runs like a new one now. i think the parts were like 15.00 dollars.
Remove and label all electrical wiring, connectors and vacuum hoses necessary to gain removal clearance.
Remove the spark plug wires. Disconnect the PCV hose.
Remove the four nuts and grommets located on top of the cylinder head cover.
Remove the cylinder head cover and the cover gasket from the cylinder head.
Discard the gasket and replace with a new one.
To install:
With a wire brush or gasket scraper, remove all the old gasket material from the cylinder head and the cylinder head cover gasket surfaces.
When the cylinder head surfaces are free and clean, apply beads of sealant to the cylinder head in the locations shown in the accompanying illustrations.
Install the new cylinder head gasket in the cover. Make sure that the gasket seats evenly.
Place the cylinder head cover with the gasket onto the cylinder head.
Install the four grommets and nuts. Uniformly tighten the nuts in several passes to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
Connect the PCV hose. Connect all removed vacuum hoses, connectors and electrical wiring. Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and inspect for oil leaks.
Repair any leaks as necessary.
For the V-6 (3.0L) engine:
Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
Disconnect the radiator inlet hose.
Disconnect the throttle and accelerator cables.
Remove the air cleaner cap assembly.
Remove the V-bank cover. Use a hexagon wrench to loosen the nuts.
Label and remove all emission control valve hoses. Disconnect any wiring interfering with the valve cover removal.
Remove the air intake chamber. This will gain you access to the back valve cover.
Disconnect the engine wire from the left hand side, No. 3 timing belt cover, rear side and right hand side. Most of the wiring is secured by nuts and or bolts to the body of the vehicle.
Remove the ignition coils, make sure the place them in order on a table so not to mix them up.
Remove the 8 bolts retaining the valve covers and gasket.
Clean the mating area of the valve cover and cylinder heads well. If necessary, scrape any left gasket from either surface.
Apply seal packing to the cylinder heads and place new gaskets into position.
Attach the valve covers. Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes to 69 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
Install the spark plugs in their proper locations, then place the ignition coils into place and secure.
Attach all engine wiring be sure to secure each harness properly.
Install the air intake chamber. Refer to Fuel System .
The engine timing being faulty would be a very likely reason especially if all the cylinders have no compression. Less likely reasons could be forgetting to install a cylinder head gasket, putting the wrong size valves in the cylinder head, installing new valves without lapping them into the valve seats, loose spark plugs, and piston ring gaps that are lined up instead of staggered.
The following steps are necessary if your car has A/C and if you are removing the passenger side valve cover, if you do not need to remove the passenger side valve cover, skip them.
Remove the A/C compressor belt and the compressor from the mounting bracket located on the passenger side of the engine. Do not remove the lines from the compressor.
Place the compressor with the lines attached on the passenger side front shock tower and secure.
Remove the compressor bracket.
Remove the air cleaner-to-throttle body hose.
Label and remove all necessary electrical and vacuum connections.
Remove the attaching bolts for the valve cover(s).
Remove the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s). If necessary, lightly tap the valve cover with a soft hammer to aid in removal.
To install:
Thoroughly clean the valve cover(s) and cylinder head gasket mating surfaces.
Install the valve cover(s) on the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
Tighten the valve cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
Install all necessary electrical and vacuum connections.
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Install the A/C bracket (if removed).
Install the A/C compressor and belt (if removed).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
2.3L and 2.4L 5-Cylinder, and 2.9L 6-Cylinder Engines
The 2.3L and 2.4L 5-cylinder, and 2.9L 6-cylinder engines have a two-piece cylinder head, the upper half and the lower half. The upper half is basically the same as a valve cover, except that it incorporates the bearing caps for the camshafts into the underside.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the spark plug access cover.
Label and remove the ignition coils and vent hoses or the distributor cap and wires if equipped.
Check the cam alignment before removing the cylinder head.
Remove the bolts attaching the upper cylinder head.
Remove the upper cylinder head, lightly tap with a soft hammer if necessary.
To install:
Thoroughly clean the upper and lower cylinder head gasket mating surfaces.
Apply liquid sealing compound to the upper cylinder head mating surface.
WARNING Use a roller or your finger to spread sealant, do not use an excessive amount of sealant, or the oil passages could become clogged.
Place the upper cylinder head onto the lower cylinder head.
Check the cam alignment before tightening the cylinder head.
Install Volvo tool number 5454 or equivalent to the upper cylinder head.
Tighten the nut on the tools to seat the upper cylinder head.
Tighten the upper cylinder head bolts, beginning from the center out to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
Install the ignition coils and hoses or the distributor cap and wires.
Install the spark plug access cover.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the vehicle and check for leaks.
Fig. 2: Remove the clamp and detach the vent hose
Fig. 3: Remove the spark plug cover and the plug wires or ignition coils to access the retaining bolts
Fig. 4: Remove the retaining bolts
Fig. 5: A light tap with a soft-faced hammer is usually required to loosen the valve cover
Fig. 6: Carefully lift the upper cylinder head up and off the lower section. Note the integral camshaft bearing caps in the casting
Yes, you need a Rocker cover (valve cover) Gasket kit. Remove the valve cover, remove all old O-rings and cover gasket, clean grooves and mating surfaces without gouging or scratching them, put the new gaskets on as per factory recommendations, tighten to the proper torque and you're done. The spark plug holes in the cover are part of the valve cover gasket kit. Any Napa, Car Quest, Pep Boys, Auto Zone will have it.
It can be a bad spark plug, plug wire, burnt valve, blown head gasket, or worn piston rings. Replace the spark plugs and plug wires and see if the miss goes away. If it does not then have a compression test run on the engine. In addition if you are loosing coolant with no apparent leak, and you see white smoke coming from the exhaust you may have a blown head gasket which will cause a miss.
Yes, remove all of the spark plugs, and test each cylinder individually. This will tell if the gasket has sealed properly. Once you get the engine running, do this again to see if it can hold combustion pressures.
There are only four ways for oil to get to the spark plug. Bad head gasket, bad rings on the piston, Cylinder scored or warped, and bad valve seals.
Start with the most likely, bad head gasket. When they rebuilt the engine they could have left out an oil seal 'O' ring. Check the head bolts. Did they tighten the top end down tight? Are you seeing oil on the outside of the head and cylinder? When the cylinder is firing properly, do you hear any head gasket leakage?
Do a compression check on both cylinders. This should tell if rings and valves are ok. Does the bike smoke most all the time when running properly? Does it only smoke when first started and when pulling away from a stop light? Bad rings will smoke all the time. Bad valve seals will smoke when starting out.
Scored cylinders are best checked with the head removed. Warped cylinders can only be checked with the head removed and by using a cylinder hone. The hone will reveal any low areas.
Chances are slim that you can avoid pulling off the cylinder head. Best wishes.
Please rate this solution after the problem is found. Thanks.
also replaced spark plug and put on new coil
These engines have a two barrel carb and if one side is not working correctly it will cause only one cylinder to work.
Mine lost power and would only run with the choke full on. Instead of rebuilding I replaced the carb. Didn't fix the issue so I wrongly thought it was elsewhere since the carb was new right?
I replaced a coil, fuel pump, fuel lines, spark plugs, adjusted valves, performed compression test, both at 120 so no issues there.
Finally went back to my original thought and pulled the new carb off and opened it up. One of the jets had a piece of debris stuck in it that was the same material that the float was made of.
After clearing it put it back together and bingo. Runs like a champ. These are picky with the carbs so I would start there.
I would make real sure it is clean and fully functional before going to the expense of trying to run down a problem elsewhere.
Hope my experience helps.
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