My Hayward In Line Chlorinator has been great for 20years . I have replaced the cap about five years ago. It is leaking through the top & there is an awful lot of mineral build up inside the canister. If I use vinegar will that help dissolve the build up? Any advise on stopping the leak? Does the quality of puck affect the flow or could it cause blockage. A friend gave me her old pucks & I have used them this last month. There was water at the very top when I opened the canister top. Is that normal or is that a sign of blockage? Is it time for a new unit or can I make this unit last? What is the price of a new one today? Ed

you have a leak in one of the intake unions make sure to use pool lube if those ok check pump top seal or chlorinator top keep checking youll find it if not need more info

drill a pilot hole into plug and remove old plug. worst comes to worst, replace the bloody chlorinator!!!!!

PO455 Evap System Gross Leak

The old days left in 1981 some 32 years ago

You really have to smoke test the Evap System to
find hose leaks & use a scan tool to actuate the solenoids
to check for bad ones

Without a system diagram your pretty much lost

Your system has a suction side and a discharge side. Skimmer and bottom drain hook to the suction side. Returns (discharge) return via chlorinator or other sanitary system and heater if appropriate, to ports in the side of the pool.

This can be very trickey. I've been it the busniess for thirty years and changeing the valve out confused me and had me pulling my balding hairs out. then when I was done I thought what was all the hub bub about. If you go out and get areplacement valve it will come with some very confuseing directions. What all this boiles down to is there is a snap ring of sorts behind the dial that will get pulled out like a string on a laundry bag only it is made of plastic that has always lived with chloriene an will be brittle, so be careful. It will come out a very small slot at the bottom of and behind the dial.. If you break it it will be a real pain to get out and that is all the help I can give you on that. But once you do it once you will say what was all the hub bub about. You will want your neighbors to get one so you can show off. The gut on your valve is the Acilies Heal on this chlorinator and may be needed to be changed every year or two but other than that it is in my humble oponion the best erosion feeder for house hold use. Well good luck and get the new one before you start so you can see what I have been talking about and see the pictures I can't draw here.

A CL200 Involves direct injection of chlorine into the pool. Water passes through the chlorinator and goes to the pool with chlorinated. WIth the 200 (Not the 220) I've only seen a handful with problems over the years with chlorine not dissolving. If the chlorinator is not leaking, and the control valve is moving freely here's what I'd recommend.

1. Are you using a new type of tablet?
If so remove the tablets and place into a floating chlorinator.*** WARNING Wear Rubber Gloves, while handling wet tabs****
Dial it all the way open. If the tablets don't break down at this point with in a day or two, They were over compressed at the factory, potentially have to much filler (most slow tablets should be 95-99% cholroine) or the water is too cold ( below 70 deg. This should not be an issue in July) If this is the case switch brands.

If the chlorine is dissolving in the floater but not the chlorinator it could be one of the following.
1. Make sure the direction on the chlorinator is correct inlet (from Filter) to outlet (to pool)
2.. In some of the newer 200 chlorinators there is a built in check valve you can see it in the bottom of the chlorinator You will notice a threaded piece in the bottom that contains a white plastic ball the size of a pea. If this ball does not move freely to the touch, odds are the filler in your chlorine has clogged it from moving, thus preventing the flow of water from dissolving the chlorine.
You can check this by removing the chlorinator from the pool, removing the lid and pouring water directly into the top. If you do not see water passing through to the "Outlet" side of the chlorinator a clog is most likey your problem.
I've seen clogs cleared with wire coat hangers and hot water. Be forewarned that hot water being poured into a chlorinator will cause the any residual chlorine to gas off, make sure you do not have you face over the chlorinator when you add the hot water and you do so in a very well ventilated area. A straightened wire coat hanger can be used to dislodge any obstruction in the check valve and "get the ball rolling again"

Hope it helps.

You may need to put a hartford loop in your plumbing between your chlorinator and the heater. The chloriene will back up in the line bad when the pump is off and corrode the exchanger. A hartford loop is simpley a loop than runs low then high above the top of the heater so it can trap gasses in the line and won't let them get back in the line. If all else fails you can use a floater. Be sure to check your PH also. Good luck.