My Maytag MFW9600 front-loader makes our clothes smell like mold & will not drain properly, it gets "stuck" on the drain & spin. We have to manually turn the knob to drain/spin, usually this works. After thouroughly cleaning it with bleach to rid the smelly moldy odor, I the entire interior wash drum seems to be just "floating", I really shook it and it sounds like water sloshing under the wash drum. What is the problem & the solution?

Could it be one of the valves? My LG front loader had problems with one of the electronic valves not opening and closing properly.

They have cleaners available that will cure this problem.

Buy some Affresh cleaner. You can find this at Home Depot. It should clean gookus from front boot. Also, take a dry rag and `clean the boot area of mold and mildew. I know some of my customers just leave the door open overnight to let it air our.

Our Maytag front loading washer has been a constant source aggravation for us due to the exact same problems you describe. If your is under warranty or extended warranty - call NOW. Otherwise, you're going to have to go above and beyond maintaining this washers. Anyway - to your question:

If you pay attention to the washer during a run, you might notice that the high speed spin cycle after the rinse isn't functioning. When you open the door, you find the clothes are soaking wet. This happens because of a lousy design on the latch - which Maytag calls a "wax motor". There's wax in the mechanism and that's where it gets the name. What happens to them is the dampness invades the mechanism and eventually causes components on the control board which is located behind the operator panel to fail. Maytag's fix is a two step process: 1) replace the wax motor and 2) replace the control board. This approach does indeed solve this problem but it will set you back several (or more) hundreds of dollars. I found that if you go to eBay and search for "neptune repair kit" you'll be returned a list of products that for a grand sum of about $35 will do the same thing that the Maytag fix does. Of course, you'll have to do the repairs yourself - but if you can solder electronic parts, isn't too difficult to do - just follow the directions and take your time. Once you've replaced the components on the control board and the wax motor, the washer should spin like it did before.

The moldy odor in this front loading washer and clothes is caused by the way the washer (and many others, too) are built. First and foremost, stop using regular detergent in it. You've got to use the types designated as "HE" (High Efficiency). They suds up a lot less, and due to the significantly less water our front loaders use, actually leave less soap residue (that is a large source of the mold and musty smell) behind the tub of our machines. I use only about 1/2 of the HE detergent recommended on the bottle and get very good results. Next, run a clothes-less wash consisting of bleach and HOT water only 1 X week. This should be the last load run. Third, always wipe dry the inside of the tub, detergent & softener dispensing areas, the gasket around the door - particularly the bottom, again, this is best after the last load is complete. Fourth, leave all doors open or slightly ajar to allow for air circulation.

To remove the existing mold smell from the machine, one or two initial treatments (followed by regular treatments) of a product called "Affresh" (or equal) as directed.

If you can do all this, you'll save a bunch of money on the repairs and aggravation due to the smell on your clothes - for a relatively small investment in your time and money. Next time, do what I'm going to do, buy a top loader.

I hope this helps & good luck!

go to smellywasher.com try some!

If you take a bit of tilex mold/mildew spray and a rag, you should be able to remove it all.
Also , look down at the bottom of the front "gutter" just in front of the tub. There is a series of drain holes and clothes lint can build up a bit in here. take a towel and wipe the holes really clean . This will help keep the water draining out of the front and keep the moldy smell to a minimum.
One last thing, I've found with my front loader, that if I keep my wash loads to a medium full size instead of completely jammed full load size, the drain/mold issue is almost non-existent.
Hope this clean it all up for you!

Front loaders are known for building up mold and the smell.
It’s caused by using liquid detergent which is made from animal fat. Use powder. And use the minimum amount.
It’s caused by using fabric softener. Dilute it 50/50 with water.
It’s caused by the water remaining in the tub between washes. Leave the door open to allow it to dry. .
Pull the rubber door seal back and clean the mold off .
Affresh is recommended by some manufacturers. You run it through a wash cycle with it.

The belt is sliping on spin if not to bad it can be tighten up. but it won't last long. Replace it.

Ken

the washer has a low level of water in it at all times. it will never completely drain out unless you pump it. this is one of the reasons there is such a smell with these washers, i use vinegar in rinse cycle and i use bleach once sometimes twice a month to keep mold and mildew smell away.

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a “Clean Cycle” available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



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