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Is this pin on the door or the frame? If the frame then you need a new door lock assembly that you replace by peeling back the rubber tub bellow after removing retainer spring.
this happened to mine while still under warranty, eventually the repair man brought a small replacement part which took 5 minutes to fix, but not before a previous engineer had ordered a complete new door.
you should be able to get the part ordered, and it would be easy to replace yourself.
Now my FP oven has broken down again
I had a situation such as this with our washer, in the end I had found that the safety switch had failed open. You'll note on the washer door the small pin thats drops down from it which closes the safety switch when the door is closed (if the pin broke off this would do it too) In my case the switch had failed and would not allow the washer to engage into a spin mode. (first unplug the washer) You can check this switch by removing the wires from the switch and using an ohm meter check the switch for continuitty when closed; I expect you'll need to remove the top of the washer to access this switch. It would be possible to connect the wires together going to this switch bye-passing the switch; if it runs you know the switch had failed. AS this is a safety device do not continue use of the washer untill the switch is replaced.
I removed the inner door panel and found the handle broken. It has integrally molded plastic pins that provide a pivot for the handle to push against the release assembly. These were broken off. Also noticed that there were some small fingers molded on the back of the switch panel that were snapped off. I'm not sure what these are for and I can't see how they are needed for the latch operation. My hunch is that they aid in positioning the handle during factory assembly. I'm NOT going to buy a new switch panel to replace these!
I don't know why the handle broke but it did so in stages. I think one pin broke, and then everything else broke because of added misalignment and stress. The good news: a new handle only costs about $10 and I'll have it in a couple of days.
Thanks
YOU MAY HAVE BROKEN THE BUTTON, A SMALL PIN LIKE PUSH BUTTON THAT PUSHES IN TO LET THE DOOR LOCK KNOW THE DOOR IS SHUT. YOU CAN USUALLY FIND A SMALL DIAMETER OBJECT LIKE WHAT IS IN A RETRACTABLE BALL POINT PEN TO SLIP INTO THE HOLE WHERE THE BROKEN PIN IS AS A TEMPORARY REPLACEMENT AND TO CONFIRM THIS IS ACTUALLY THE PROBLEM. IF IT IS, YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY FOR PERMANENT REPAIR. DON'T SLAM THE DOOR SHUT BECAUSE THESE PARTS ARE MADE OF PLASTIC AND BREAK EASILY!
I did it! The trick was to push a small nail into the hole and push in on the filter door while rotating the door...all at the same time. The original problem was the water not draining and the washer displaying code E04. Just like a previous solution stated, there was one knee high sock in the drainage pipe.
No, unfortunately the door latch assy. comes as a complete unit. Part# 8182634. This # is for the entire door latch mechanism, not just the pin and lists for ~$45.00.
Easy repair... open the door. At the 6 o'clock position of the door seal, begin removing the seal clamp with a small screwdriver by inserting it between the spring and the seal. Then peel the seal back (at the 3 o'clock position) to gain access to the latch assy. Remove the 3 screws holding the latch in place and pull gently out. Remove the wire harness. Install the new latch and rebuild. (make sure you position the seal clamp the same way it came off... the spring at the 6 o'clock position.) Install time= ~15 minutes.
Job done! and well worth the 50 bucks!
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