Nikon FE shutter speeds problem

Turn the speed dial to M90, This will reset the camera, Then make sure you have good batteires before you tke it off of M-90, Battery check on side of camera,. Top cover rewind side

M90 is a battery independent setting - it requires no battery power to function. If it won't advance until put on M90 from other settings, then either you're not allowing for proper exposure, have the settings incorrectly set (film speed, etc), or you have shutter issues. The shutter is electronically controlled on all settings except M90. In the auto setting, your lense MUST be set to the smallest aperture (biggest number). On any other setting, you can use it however you'd like. I'd suggest unloading any film, setting the shutter speed dial to 1/125 or so, opening the back and looking thru and firing the shutter. If it's not snapping open and immediately closed, theres an issue and you need to consult a repair technician either locally, through Nikon, or through KEH Camera online.

Try a new set of batteries. The shutter is electronically operated at all speeds except the B and M90 settings. If the exposure meter works with a new set of batteries but the shutter still does not, then you'll have to take it in for service.

No, the only thing that the FE uses the battery for is the light meter and shutter. You can operate it completely without the battery using the M90 and BULB shutter speed settings.
Your film advance problem is a mechanical problem - check for any small objects that may be jammed into the film transport mechanism. If nothing is obviously causing a blockage, then the camera will need to be serviced.

I have the same problem with a Nikon F2, got it off my grandfather and its been in his attic for at least the last 10 years. I don't know if parts have seized up or if im doing something wrong. have put in new batteries, but film advance lever won't go past "on" position. have tried pressing shutter but it doesn't help. Also film winding knob will not lift up enough to load in a film! any solutions!?

It sounds like your cameras need a CLA (clean, lube and adjustment). Occasionally when this has happened to me, i noticed that it was the foam on the mirror bumper that had gotten all deteriorated and gummy and as such the mirror would 'stick' to it when it flipped up. Changing the foam seals might do the trick.

Switching to M90 means that the camera is in Manual mode whereby it is not relying on the electronics at all in the camera. When your battery dies in mid shoot, you switch to M90 and you shoot manually at a fixed speed of 1/90 second. Of course your light meter won't have power, but if you meter manually or go by the 'Sunny 16' rule, you can adjust the aperture and get your shots.

Yes, moving the shutter dial to M90 should release the mirror back down, if it is stuck up.I'm assuming of course that you didn't manually set the mirror up anyway... Test it out with brand new batteries!

The problem could lie in the meter/speed dial unit or in the shutter itself. New parts are no longer available for that model. You may be able to find a good one on one of the auction sites or even Craigslist. A good used one would be less than a repair even if parts were on hand.

TRy firing the camera in the M90 setting. If it fires properly, use the battery test switch. If the battery LED doesn't light up, replace the batteries (2 MS76 type). The FE requires healthy batteries to operate the shutter. If the meter is calling for a slow shutter speed (low light or lens cap still on?). If the batteries are good, but the shutter still won't fire normally in sufficient light, looks like you're in for a repair shop visit.

This is a fairly common problem with Nikon FE . It is usually caused by poor connection ( usually dry joint ) between the light meter board ( all of this is just under the top cover on the right hand side and the top cover is quite easy to remove ) and the shutter and you fix it by resoldering all the connecting wires between the two.

It may be fatal as there are no parts available for the FE series. The main components that cause this problem are the FRE/ASA unit and the meter itself. The FRE is located under the rewind knob side of the top cover. It is made of glass and can be damaged by impact. The meter is under the speed dial and can also cause this type of problem. Neither is a easy repair.