Intially, the computer would just turn off anywhere from 30 secs to 5 minutes. Changed the power supply and now the monitor gets no signal

14.2.2 To Make a Diagnosis1 Timer LED starts to blink and the unit automatically stops the operation.
2 Press the CHECK button on the remote control continuously for 5 seconds.
3 "- -" will be displayed on the remote control display.
Note: Display only for "- -" (No signal transmission, no receiving sound and no Power LED blinking)
4 Press the TIMER ? or ? button on the remote control. The code "H00" (no abnormality) will be displayed
and signal will be transmit to the main unit.
5 Each press of the button (? or ?) will increase error code
number and transmit error code signal to the main unit.
6 When the latest abnormality code on the main unit and
code transmitted from the remote control are matched,
Power LED will light up for 30 seconds and a "beep" sound
(continuously for 4 seconds) will be heard. If no codes are
matched, Power LED will light up for 0.5 seconds and no
sound will be heard.
7 The breakdown diagnosis mode will be canceled unless
pressing the CHECK button continuously for 5 seconds or
operating the unit for 30 seconds.
8 The LED will be off if the unit is turned off or the RESET
button on the main unit is pressed.
Diagnosis
display Abnormality / Protection control Abnormality
Judgement Emergency operation Primary location to verify H00 No abnormality detected - Normal operation H11 Indoor / Outdoor abnormal communica
tion > 1 min after starting
operation Indoor fan operation
only • Internal / external cable connections
• Indoor / Outdoor PCB H14 Indoor intake air temperature sensor
abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Intake air temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected) H15 Outdoor compressor temperature sensor
abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Compressor temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected) H16 Outdoor Current Transformer open cir
cuit - - • Outdoor PCB
• IPM (Power transistor) module H19 Indoor fan motor mechanism locked 7 times occurance
continuously - • Indoor PCB
• Fan motor H23 Indoor heat exchanger temperature sen
sor abnormality Continue for 5 sec. O
(Cooling only) • Heat exchanger temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected) H24 Indoor heat exchanger temperature sen
sor 2 abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Heat exchanger temperature sensor
(detective or disconnected) H27 Outdoor intake air temperature sensor
abnormality Continue for 5 sec. O • Outdoor temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected) H28 Outdoor heat exchanger temperature
sensor abnormality Continue for 5 sec. O • Outdoor heat exchanger temperature
sensor (detective or disconnected) H30 Outdoor discharge air temperature sen
sor abnormality Continue for 5 sec. - • Outdoor temperature sensor (detec
tive or disconnected) H33 Indoor / Outdoor wrong connection - - • Indoor / Outdoor supply voltage H38 Indoor / Outdoor mismatch (brand code) H50 Ventilation motor abnormality 7 times occurance
continuously - • Indoor PCB
• Ventilation motor H51 Nozzle lock abnormality 2 times occurance
continuously - • Nozzle H52 Limit switch abnormality - - • Indoor PCB H97 Outdoor fan motor mechanism locked 2 times occurance
within 30 minutes - • Indoor PCB
• Fan motor H98 Indoor high pressure protection - - • Air filter dirty
• Air circulation short circuit H99 Indoor heat exchanger anti-freezing pro
tection - - • Insufficient refrigerant
• Air filter dirty F11 Cooling / Heating cycle changeover
abnormality 4 times occurance
within 30 minutes - • 4-way valve
• V-coil F90 PFC control 4 times occurance
within 10 minutes - • Voltage at PFC F91 Refrigerantion cycle abnormality 2 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • No refrigerant
(3-way valve is closed) F93 Compressor rotation failure 4 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • Compressor F95 Cool high pressure protection 4 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • Outdoor refrigerant circuit F96 IPM (power transistor) overheating pro
tection 4 times occurance
within 30 minutes - • Excess refrigerant
• Improper heat radiation
• IPM (Power transistor) F97 Outdoor compressor overheating protec
tion 4 times occurance
within 10 minutes - • Insufficient refrigerant
• Compressor F98 Total running current protection 3 times occurance
within 20 minutes - • Excess refrigerant
• Improper heat radiation F99 Outdoor Direct Current (DC) peak detec
tion 7 times occurance
continuously - • Outdoor PCB
• IPM (Power transistor)
• Compressor

Note:
"O" - Frequency measured and fan speed fixed.
The memory data of error code is erased when the power supply is cut off, or press the Auto Switch until "beep" sound heard following by pressing the "CHECK" button at remote controller.
Although operation forced to stop when abnormality detected, emergency operation is possible for certain errors (refer to Error Codes Table) by using remote controller or Auto Switch at indoor unit. However, the remote controller signal receiving sound is changed from one "beep" to four "beep" sounds.

shut your computer down for 1 minutes with the power unplugged, and try it again.

depending on if your savvy with computers or not depends on how indepth you want to be.
You need to determine if your video card has gone bad or not. try to remove everything attached to your motherboard, memory, hard drives, any cables, and see if your screen turns on. Take out any network cards, video cards, modems etc, that is inside your comptuer. So you need to have your motherboard, cpu and fan+ power supply connected, and try to turn it on. If the screen comes up,l something you removed is bad. If it does not, and your computer is running, bad video card.

Most computers today come with an integrated video card, meaning everything is 1 piece. You might be able to bypass your motherboards video card port, by installing a separate card. You can get these at any computer store.

Hope this helps!

Here are the service manual (not usre which model you have, downloads are limit to two per day):
http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&megnev=acer&megnev2=al1511&kategoria=&kat2=all
You need to do some voltage checking make sure you do have 5 and 12v. The caps the secondary DC side should all be replaced at the same time, it may look OK but they can have high ESR, and they also should be low ESR type such as FM or FC series by PANASONIC. You can send me pictures if you want more help, [email protected]
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://www.badcaps.net

your back lights are going out. you need it repaired. it may be the lamps. invertors or power supply. you need to look at the power supply for damaged electronics, leaking crown capacitors. blown fuses and resistors. you need to replace them to make it work

First refix the RAM and Pci graphic card.
Pull cmos cell from mother bord for 15 minutes then put again into its position then all settings are defaults.
Then if still face problem then check with other RAM.

Sounds like it could be that the lcd is going bad in your monitor. Try hooking up a known working monitor to your computer and if you get the video to stay on then you know the original monitor is bad. If you cant' get the video to stay on even with the known working monitor then you know that the video card inside of the computer is bad.

Are you using usb keyboard and muse. if so your usb ports are dead

Ryan

I have a 61MP1 that wont turn on. I get the green flashing light to signal power but nothing happens with the plasma. You seem to know a fair bit. A guy in UK said he'd supply a new power board for $500 but wants my old one in return. Sounds like it might be something I can fix here. Any suggestions. Barry

First you sec your monitor power cable is not loos or power in properly if ok then you sec your monitor VGA cable is properly conect to your pc if ok then you disconnect your VGA cable in your pc then you power on your monitor and sec that youre monetor screen. show a masege or not masage like tiis : CHEEK SIGNAL CABLE or NO SIGNAL : if show this signal then you men your display card is not responding or monitor shows nothing then you meen your monitor is faulty then contact any monitor techenican and solve your monitor problem.

have you tested the power supply connection feeds? test each connector I think you will find your power supply has failed on either the 5 volt or the 12 volt side more than likely 5 volts are down' the agp adapter needs 5 volts to run. since you have changed out every thing else I would replace that or test your dads power supply in your computer, that should do the trick