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when motors go bad they overheat ruin seals and distort pump housing replace whole unitwhen motors go bad they overheat ruin seals and distort pump housing replace whole unit
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Depending on the pump you have to separate the motor from the housing bust removing the bolts. Once the expelled is exposed, remove the cover and the back end of the motor housing the electrical wiring. You can access the shaft of the motor and hold it in place with a small box wrench. Than spin the expelled off counter clockwise. Replace the melchanical seal and reinstall the impeller. Replace the seal for the housing and reinstall the housing to the motor. Fill the pump with water again and turn the lower back on
The motor is made by A.O. Smith in Tippton, OH. You can try calling them, and with any luck you may get a kind soul that can get you a splsh sheild. It is probably not a part you can purchase from a distributor, but that is an option you can also pursue. Good luck.
It looks like since you have a square flange motor you have either a Tri-Star, a Maxflo II pump or other model by Hayward.. Either way the process is very similar. Replace the seal, o-rings and gaskets with new ones. Use a teflon based lubricant on all rubber parts, including the seal, but try not to get any on the ceramic (white ring).
Shut power off at the breaker.
Remove the bolts connecting the motor plate to the pump housing.
Back motor assembly out of pump housing making sure that the diffuser and its gasket also come out.
Disconnect the electrical supply.
Remove the diffuser if still covering the impeller, (there may or may not be screws to remove).
Remove impeller ring (if one).
Holding the impeller firmly remove the impeller screw. This is in the center of the impeller and has a REVERSE THREAD, meaning turn screw clockwise to loosen.
Remove the end cap on the opposite end of the motor and use a 9/16" open end wrench to hold the shaft from turning.
Unscrew the impeller CCW.
IMPORTANT -- Note how both parts of the seal are oriented to assure the new one is installed likewise, then pull off the seal and seal plate, and discard old seal parts. Also note which way is UP on the seal plate relative to the motor.
Reassembly to the new motor is basically reversing the steps above.
NOTES: The impeller ring (if one) is a ring with a lip around one side. This goes over the center of the installed impeller with the lip facing outward, away from the impeller.
Do not over tighten the bolts! You can damage the pump by doing this. Snug plus about a quarter turn is plenty. In the event you have leaking after startup, open the pump back up and check you housing gasket.
The front of the wet end must be removed to access the impeller. Then remove the rear electrical covering to expose the rear end of the motor shaft. Look closely at the shaft. It has two flat sides. A 12mm open face wrench will fit onto the shaft. Lock the shaft in place with the wrench and unscrew the impeller. The rear housing behind the impeller pops off to reveal four 9/16 bolts. Remove them and the motor is free. Reverse the process with the new motor.
Bearing have gone bad in the electric motor. You will have to replace the electric motor. They are expensive but still cheaper than buying a whole new heater.
First you'll need to take the outer 6 bolts off the pump housing and that will allow you to remove the impeller and impeller housing with the motor. Then you can remove all the impeller parts and get to the bolts that hold your motor to the housing.... When you get the impeller and the housing free, check to see if your motor will turn... alot of times the motors get jammed because the pump sucks debris and jams in the impeller.... you may be able to still use your motor...worth a try... K
If you remove the motor, which usually isn't to difficult to do. I would recommend plugging it in to one of your electrical outlets to check it. There is a possibility that the wiring is messed up or the plug in the housing went bad. If the motor doesn't work you need a new motor if it does work then you could try replacing the plug in the housing. All these parts are still available. Here is a motor finder for NuTone motors: http://www.centralvacuumstores.com/nutone/fan-motor-main.php Here is the manufacturer you can get parts from them: http://nutone.com/
If you have 150k on it, you may need all three. Run the engine, turn on heater, and get out and slam the hood a couple of times. In extreme cold or hot weather, this may get you by for a few days. I went 3 or 4 months with a bad blower by doing this, when the brushes inside the motor went bad. If it does not work, your blower is probably bad. The switch can have bad contacts, and you may try moving or holding it vertically to see if you can get any activity out of it. Put a resistor in too, if you have to replace the blower motor.
shut off power to dryer. take front off dryer,remove belt from motor and idler pully (if there is one) try turning the motor shaft by hand. if it doesn't turn ,take off back of dryer and remove blower housing and see if anything is blocking the impellers.. if not any of these then you may have to get professional help it may be a bad motor or timer
when motors go bad they overheat ruin seals and distort pump housing replace whole unit
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