Heating up, shuts off, Shutting off going about an 1 hour trip. hearing small noise in front of engine. Seams to be running hot. service techs put it on dyna but no results. Shut off again next trip. ran about an hour then stopped for an hour. 20 minutes into ride shut off again.

Sounds like the safety thermostats on the machine is tripping because the machine is overheating or the circuit breaker is tripping because machine needs more amperage.

sounds like the relay on the compressor went bad and is causing arching which trips the breaker

1st go the the house breaker (dbl breaker) for the dryer and shut it off and turn it back on, your dryer runs on 220 volts of power but if the breaker is partially tripped it may be only running on 110 volts which is only enough power to turn the lights on and to turn the drum the element needs 220 volts to turn on. If it still doesn't heat after resetting the breaker then you may need a heating element or thermostat. The dryer isn't shutting off because it isn't detecting the clothes are getting dry so once you fix your heating problem the dryer should start shutting off on its own again.

Like a buzzing noise? Check valve where water lines connect at back will make a buzzing noise, if you only hear it when running hot water and not when running cold. Remove and replace it after shutting water off, and draining tank down. Be sure to shut off any hydro to electric element prior to draining.You can buy a replacement check valve, or just put a short 1/2" pipe nipple in there instead and reconnect your line, and refill it. noise should be gone .

The noise is caused by the engine running on after the ignition is shut off. It makes noise because the pistons are rattling in the cylinders from incorrect timing. This has nothing to do with the mechanical or electronic timing of the engine. The engine runs on either because of hot glowing carbon deposits in the cylinder head or because the engine was shut down when it was running too fast. Sometimes the carbon can be literally blown out by running the engine at high rpm for a short time. Put it in second gear and run it for a couple of miles on the highway. If this does not work the heads will have to be removed and the carbon cleaned out manually. The shut down when running too fast problem can be caused by the idle being set too high or by shutting the engine off before it has reached idle speed. If you can adjust the idle speed try reducing it. If not always hesitate before shutting the engine down to let it reach idle speed. Good Luck!

. Some models the fan only comes on when higher levels are employed, this generally to limit the fan noise from becoming background noise imposing on your listening pleasure. Who wants to here a fan going in quiet passages. The fan may well be faulty also. You will need to check to see that it is operating, and also not clogged up with dust (or cat hair is another common one)

I forgot to ask you what model the amp is, as some of the Technics range run rather hot due to class A output stages. But having said that, it should not be going into protection mode. It is highly likely that you have cracked/heat stressed solder joints about the output and or power regulator stages in the amp. The fact that it runs ok, then shuts down would point to this. The same dry solder joints could be causing the amp to overheat also, exacerbating the problem. Fault producing excessive heating of the output stages , that heat stresses stages causing more problems and the the ultimate killer of transistorised output stages, thermal runaway.

If you are able to solder well, I can talk you through resoldering the output stages, although it is really just that. resoldering anything that looks suspect. If you don't feel confident to do this yourself,a repair shop could do the work for you at a modest fee. Expect to pay for 1-1.5 hours of work to strip, resolder and soak test the amp. If the fan has failed, then add the cost of that too, as i can predict to you that if it has been running hot, then there WILL be some resoldering required anyway as preventative maintenance, allowing the tech to put a warranty on the repairs for you with confidence.

regards
robotek

Mine does the same thing as far as shutting down on long trips---usually 1 1/2 - 2 hours. I don't think it's overheating....it's got something to do with antitheft system

Actually it sounds like its low on freon and is freezing up. After it thaws out it works fine again.

Have the freon level checked.

1. How many miles on your car?

2. Is the engine hot, when you try to start the car?

3. Is the engine hot, when you heared the knock noise?

Your unit's internal breaker is tripping out. Hmmm...I think all of these high end Yamaha AVRs have a self diagnostic program. I have an earlier Yamaha model (1998) DSP-A1 and it does. You should be able to access the diagnostic readout by pushing the right buttons on the front panel. I have a service manual for my DSP-A1 and it shows how to do it for my unit. The diagnostic program stores in memory what fault caused the internal breaker to trip. I would suggest you get a copy of the service manual for the Z9. You can readily get one on the web from various suppliers for a small fee. My guess would be a high temperature trip as I have heard the z9s run very hot.