Bryant High Efficiency Unit, runs constantly, I suspect the thermostat. Fan control and thermostat were replaced. The installer was to familiar with the installation. Could you please give me an idea of what could be the problem. Thank you for your assistance. The unit is over 20 years old. If replacement is required what would you suggest?

SOURCE: Bryant Legacy Line air conditioning not blowing cool air..

Your outdoor condenser is in heat mode. Check the wires on the thermostat. Sounds like a small wiring problem and nothing else. Good luck. Please keep me posted as to you progress.

SOURCE: Noisy Bryant Air Conditioner with Puron Regrigerant Model 113A

Steve, From your description you may have some debris on the inside of your A\C line. When you install a split system there needs to be a filter drier installed to collect any excess solder\brazing material or any other solid or moisture contaminents. A miniscual piece will lodge in the metering device then sometimes push through go through the compressor and make another pass. Making horrendous noise and sometimes tripping the breaker. A drier is usually a blue cylinder on the smaller line right before the indoor coil attached to your heater. Some Techs put one by the outside unit. If you dont have a drier it may void your warranty.

SOURCE: Bryant-Carrier Furnace Fan Stays On

Hi, you have replaced the stat several times, and adjusted the anticipator so its not the stat.This is a split gas/elect unit, and working on these for many years and looking at some of the solutions given, they are right.You need to be looking at the Furnace fan control.Units of that age they do tend to stick open and run constantly.I doubt its the fan relay, maybe if you were in the cooling mode.Fan controls are not that expensive. You probably have a Honeywell 7" to 11" Probe, with the auto/manual button, with a temp dial to set you're on off temps. I would inspect the heat exchanger for any signs of cracks or bulging being its that old. If you find any, you are looking at carbon monoxided and should be thinking about an upgrade soon.Also flame roll out.I am thinking of you're safety is all.If you do have this type of fan control, there is a tab that has to be cut before you install for 24v. control.It comes set for 120v. and will burn out all of your 24v. componants.Those old Bryants will run for years. Good Luck!
Shastalaker7

SOURCE: The inside unit on my

I would think that when you changed the fuses you 'cured' the problem - which was a blown fuse(s) - but now you have the same problem again - a bad fuse(s).

To test this - you could replace the fuses again - but first - I would make sure that the fuses you are using are 'time-delay' fuses. It should say on the fuse itself 'time-delay' or 'dual-delay' or something like that.

If you're using fuses that are not 'time-delay' your problem could be solved as easy as buying some 'time-delay' fuses.

However, -- fuses blowing -- are usually caused by electrical motors - i.e. compressor/fan motors - breaking down 'electrically' - and heating up and causing the amp draw to increase past the point of the fuses, i.e. a 40 amp fuse will blow when the AC starts to exceeds that rating.

One "longshot possibility" - is - if the condenser is 'really dirty' - it will cause the compressor to run hot and possibly cause the fuses to blow. I would make sure 'all power' including the inside thermostat is "off" - and then 'wash out' the condenser (the coil in the outside unit) real good with a water hose.

Of course another possibility is that you have a loose electrical connection(s) somewhere in the AC. If you're inclined to - you can again - make sure all power is off - and poke around in your AC looking for loose wire connections. Just be sure 'all power' is off before you do this.

If you are using 'time-delay' fuses and your condenser is 'clean' and you can't find any 'loose connections' - and you continue to have the same problem (blowing fuses) - I would suggest calling a Service Tech.

Note: never replace a fuse with a bigger fuse, i.e. if the fuses in your unit are 40 amp - 'do not' put in 50 amps.

It is possible that the fuse(s) you are using are not the 'right size' but that would have to be determined by a Service Tech and actually - is not a strong possibility, although certaintly possible.

hope this helps

SOURCE: no power to ac unit

Hi,
Check the breaker for the unit or check to see if the disconnect by the unit in the attic has fuses that may be blown.
If the breaker is tripped or the fuses blown, then check to see what caused them to blow...

heatman101