Actually I have 6681, 600w; want to use to regulate 80w soldering iron. Why can I not measure resistance across new switch, before installing? If it is inductive, how can I measure to know it will work? Thank you

Actually that's normal operation.

Meters such as this have a range of resistance that they are capable of measuring. When you first turn them on, the resistance across the leads (or in your case, across the lead connections) is basically infinitely. This resistance is beyond the meter's ability to measure and displays that tbe reading is out-of-range, a.k.a. overload.

When you plug the leads in and touch them together. the reading should display correctly, such as 0 ohms (or possibly a small value due to lead resistance.)

check fuse
check if power is reaching the heater
check if ground is ok
measure the resistance across the heater

if its a blown fuse- replace it
if no power reaches the heater and fuse is ok - measure if power reaches the fuse.socket then the switch for the heater and so forth
if there is poor ground or no ground - wire up a new ground or fix the old one
if there is too high of a resistance across the heater - look for broken traces and buy a silver trace pen (one made for repairing heater traces)
if there is too low of a resistance - look for a short circuit

DTC P1409: MEASURE RESISTANCE ACROSS EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1409 indicates that Self-Test has detected an electrical fault in the EVR circuit.

Possible causes:

Open EVR circuit.
Open VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
EVR circuit shorted to VPWR.
EVR circuit shorted to GND.
Damaged EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Key off.
Disconnect EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Measure EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid resistance.
Is solenoid resistance between 26 and 40 ohms?
Yes No
The EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid resistance is within specification. GO to HE111 . REPLACE EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

HE111 CHECK VPWR CIRCUIT VOLTAGE AT EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID
Key on, engine off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Measure voltage between VPWR circuit at the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector and chassis GND.
Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to HE112 . SERVICE open in VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

HE112 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
Key off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box and leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and EVR circuit at the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes No
GO to HE113 . SERVICE open in EVR circuit. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

HE113 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORTS TO POWER OR GROUND
Key off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Breakout box installed, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 71 and 97 (VPWR) at the breakout box.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 24 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE damaged PCM. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE EVR circuit for short to VPWR or PWR GND. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

HE120 CONTINUOUS MEMORY DTC P1409: WIGGLE EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID WHILE MONITORING VPWR
Continuous Memory DTC P1409 indicates that Continuous Memory Self-Test has detected an electrical malfunction in the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid sometime during vehicle operation.

Note: If DTC P1409 was output in Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test, go to HE110 to diagnose present fault.

Possible causes:

Open EVR circuit.
Open VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
EVR circuit shorted to VPWR.
EVR circuit shorted to GND.
Damaged EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure voltage between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 24 (PWR GND) at the breakout box.
Key on.
Voltage must read greater than 10.5 volts. For an indication of a fault, look for this voltage to drop while performing the following:
Lightly tap on the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Wiggle the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid connector.
Grasp the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector and wiggle wires between solenoid and PCM.
Is a fault indicated?
Yes No
ISOLATE fault and SERVICE as necessary. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. Unable to duplicate or identify fault at this time. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z1 with the following data: DPFEGR and EGRVR PIDs and list of possible causes.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Robin 11 Hp I am guessing here... RGV6100 (Model?)

Things to look for:
1. Open the control panel and inspect the capacitors and the YELLOW wires from the capacitors going to the stator. Look for signs of wax leakage from the long silver 28 MFD capacitors. You would see it in the bottom of the control panel enclosure. Probe the capacitors with a meter on a resistance (ohms) scale of R X 10,000. You should see a huge jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the test leads looking for the same indication.

2. Inspect for any loose connections from the control panel to the stator. Look for dark or hot connections. Repair as needed.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Stator checks

* STATOR

(1) Measure the insulation resistance between

BLUE lead and the core.

(2) Measure the insulation resistance between

WHITE lead and the core.

(3) Measure the insulation resistance between

YELLOW lead and the core.

(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.

AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm

Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm

* ROTOR

Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core

Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.

Resistance = 1.75 Ohm

NOTE 1 :

Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at

the terminals, resistance may be measured only

when tester probes touche the terminals in one

combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.


Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)

Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)

Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.

I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.

All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28

If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.

This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).

Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).

The cup thing allows thermal transfer to black thing which when gets hot trips switch adding resisters lowering charge current to trickle not to overcharge battery. Then red led lights, and is reset by pushing white slide towards bottom base. It is not glued it is pressure fit on bottom of black thermal switch and has a little thermal grease like heat sink compound. Should come apart if you pull hard enough maybe need to use pliers.

Check across the 160v of the electrolytic capacitor (out of chopper) for b+.
If you haven't a b+ then the problem is on the regulator section alone.
Check your regulator if good, you better swap a new one if youre not familiar on its resistance measurements. Also check the fusible resistor,electrolytic capacitor around the regulator section.

pls rate my help.

Salamat bro.

Hello

Your TV is now in dead condition I should say. You should strart from its power supply regulation section itsef to rectify the fault. Look into the fuse, a glass fuse is there, in power supply board. If It has found blown, make sure that there is something short in either power supply regulator side, of on the other part of the printed circuit board.
You just place a fuse of same rating as used, if the fuse is blown. If the fule you installed newly also blows off, check first the retifier stalk for any leak. The stalk contains four diodes, even any one of them gets shorte, fule will blow up. If there is no leak in the retifier stalk, measure the voltage resistance across the main filter capacitor, a bulky one capacitor fitted in the power regulator section. If you see a full deflection on meter, it means that there is some dead short inside the power regualtor system.
Usually Sony uses STR regulated type power supplies, and some uses MOSFET [Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistors], as switching elements. Bothe of these types can be shorted, due to a high voltage spikes, or a sudden supply failure and restart.
Check out short test on these components, out of board, that is, desolder it out from the circuit board. You just resolder one by one and measure the resistance ad described above. Thus you can find out the exact component, that have a short. If any of these components shorted, check the entire power regulator section for any more component failure, like zener diode short, resistors opened, and so on. You should have a concept of soldering and a little knoledge in electronics. There will be a MOV [Metal Oxide Varistor] fitted across the power supply input, which look like a disc capacitor. it will get shorted when a certain voltage spike occures abvve its rated voltage, and apply a dead short at the supply stage. If any of them used, desolder it out and check for any leak, and is found leaky, replace it. It is used as a saftey measure, and without it the set will work fine.
Just check these and if you find any difficulty, contact me through Fixya. Ok.

The problem is very likely to be a burn-out heating element in your soldering iron: it will now be open-circuit and you can verify this by using a multimeter on the resistance measuring range.
Hope it helps.