Laserjet 2300d will not power up. Is there a fuse or circuit breaker on the power supply? How do I access the Power Supply?

An electricity meter is usually owned by the power company or a landlord, occasionally a consumer would have his own meter fitted to the supply to ensure a landlord is rendering accurate bills.

The meter has to be owned by the landlord or supplier so they can have a right of access to the equipment and unauthorised tampering can be treated as a criminal offence.

Upgrading a meter is pointless unless the supply is capable of providing the higher current. If the supply is suitable you will need to apply for the upgrade to the owner of the meter.

It would be rare for a consumption meter to be rated at only 20 amps and it would be wise to be certain the breaker is being tripped by an overload as usually the main breaker is either an ELCB or more commonly an RCD and then the consumer unit would split the supply into separate circuits for lights, power outlets, cooker, shower, etc., with each circuit being protected by either a fuse or a MCB (micro circuit breaker).

If a circuit is overloaded either the fuse would fail or the MCB would trip. If the main breaker trips (RCD) it is mostly caused by a faulty appliance leaking current to ground or because of faulty wiring, damp or occasional water ingress for instance.

I have to say that this is one of the oddest questions I have been asked. The only real difference between single sided and duplex is that there is one solenoid and the drive motor reverses direction. Neither of these actions are directly connected to the power supply. Might be that there is a short. I would try a different outlet first.

mail me printerman007 at gmail.com

Make sure the printer is plugged into a functioning wall outlet supplying the proper voltage (110V or 220V).
If you are using a surge protector, extension cable, or power strip, plug the printer directly into the wall outlet.
Press the power button to turn on the printer.
If the issue persists, unplug the printer and wait 15 minutes.
After 15 minutes, plug the printer back in and press the power button.
If the issue persists, try a different power cord (if available).


Regards,
J Wick

The fuse blows all time on High Voltage Poewr Supply, on HP Color Laserjet 5550dn,

No circuit breaker just a fuse in the power supply. Try wiggling the power cord in the back. If you can get it to come on it means the "block" that the cord plugs into is broken loose and needs to be re-soldered. If this does not work then you are going to need a power supply repair.

check in back siode ther eis 1 plate for IC .
pull it after open screw .
then u see there RAM.
Refix it after clean dust from it and its slot.
If problem still arise then u have to change RAM.

Remove rear cover and fuser.

Blown fuses usually point to a bad power supply which is the circuit board under the fuser.

Answer Did you select an Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature option?
The Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature does not add heat to the dryer. Expect loads dried with the Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature to take longer to dry. Air Only cycle or Air Only temperature can be found on the control knob or button with the other temperature selections.
Has a household fuse blown or has a circuit breaker tripped?
The drum may be turning, but you may not have heat. Electric dryers use 2 household fuses or circuit breakers. Replace the fuses or reset the circuit breakers. If the problem continues, call an electrician.
Did you recently install a power supply cord on the dryer?
The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. Review the Installation Instructions to make sure that the power supply cord is properly installed.

A crowbar or crowbar circuit is an electrical circuit used to prevent an overvoltage condition of a power supply unit from damaging the circuits attached to the power supply. It operates by putting a short circuit across the voltage source, much as if one dropped a tool of the same name across the output terminals of the power supply. Crowbar circuits are frequently implemented using a thyristor (also called an SCR) or a trisil or thyratron as the shorting device. Once triggered, they depend on the current-limiting circuitry of the power supply or, if that fails, the blowing of the line fuse or circuit breaker.
A crowbar circuit is distinct from a clamp in that, once triggered, it pulls the voltage below the trigger level, usually close to ground. A clamp prevents the voltage from exceeding a preset level. Thus, a crowbar will not automatically return to normal operation when the overvoltage condition is removed; power must be removed entirely to stop its conduction.
The advantage of a crowbar over a clamp is that the low holding voltage of the crowbar lets it carry higher fault current without dissipating much power (which could otherwise cause overheating). Also, a crowbar is more likely than a clamp to deactivate a device (by blowing a fuse or tripping a breaker), bringing attention to the faulty equipment.


The power supply is bad. I would not try to fix it.