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I took the two screws out from the bottom below the headshell spring-pin contact unit of the arm end. It's not comming off, I need to fix the contact which is stuck inside it's hole and won't come out. So I want to get the arm-end unit out, and I don't know if it has a "Trick" to it, or just lot's of force is needed. It's slightly loose, I can move it about 2 millimeters, that's all. Is there a screwing motion needed? Do I pull on the "collar" or on the end of the arm that connects to the head-shell? Please contact me at [email protected] .... Thanks.
There's no trick to it, it"s just pretty hard. I repaired this problem on a Vestax PDX2000. Besides being a super tight fit, it seems like they use some kind of glue at the factory. But if you can move the inner ferrule at all, you should be able to get it out. I used an un sharpened pencil to push it out but that was a straight tonearm. make sure someone who has some soldering skillz solders the wires back on. This whole process will take patience. You just have to ask yourself, "How bad do i want to save 75 bucks?"
There is no trick to this. There is no easy way to repair that, unless you have the proper tools and experience. It sounds like your a novice, because of the questions you are asking.
Here is the issue you will come across...
You'll remove the collar, and find that there are 4 very thin wires soldered to the gold contacts. Those contacts have springs behind them. If they came off, or are damaged, that's it. Technics does not sell the parts for the tonearm individually. You will have to replace the entire tonearm. Soldering those thin wires back into their original position is extremely difficult. It's easier to replace the tonearm.
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sounds like your missing the cartridge......the cartridge screws to the head shell, & has 4 wires connected to it...blue / red / green / white. then the stylus,which is the needle, attaches to the cartridge. then the hole thing connects to the tone arm, with the head shell.
Hello Gene Skates - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. This is typically not a DIY job and strongly recommend contacting a professional to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve since you have already replaced the drain valve.
Hello Jason Johnson - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. I strongly recommend contacting a professional to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve.
Hello - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. I strongly recommend contacting the technician that repaired your unit previously to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve. Some certified technicians warranty their labor and part for 30 days.
Raise and support the truck on jackstands.
Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm — C-Series
Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35 Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place.
To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger tighten for now.
NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride height.
Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.
Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.
Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the procedure 2 or 3 more times.
Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models.
If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.
Perhaps you have a broken wire in the headshell, or just a bad connection. Try removing the headshell to examine, if there's no break, try cleaning the contact pins that mate the headshell to arm connections.
This is for the lower control arm:
NOTE
The inner end of the lower control arm is attached to a removable crossmember. The outer end is attached to the steering knuckle pin and ball joint assembly.
Jack up the car and support it on axle stands under the subframes.
Remove the brake drum or caliper and rotor from the spindle.
Disconnect the steering arm from the knuckle pin.
Remove the lower ball joint stud cotter pin and nut.
Separate the ball joint from the knuckle pin using a ball joint removal tool.
Disconnect the sway bar from the control arm.
Unbolt the strut rod.
Remove the inner pivot bolt and the control arm. To install:
Reverse the removal procedure; do not tighten inner pivot bolt until car weight is on wheels. Tighten ball joint retaining nut to 40 ft. lbs. through 1976, 75 ft. lbs. thereafter, strut rod bolts to 75 ft. lbs., sway bar bolts to 8 ft. lbs., steering arm bolts to 65 ft. lbs. through 1979, 55 ft. lbs. thereafter, and control arm inner pivot bolt to 95 ft. lbs. through 1976, 110 ft. lbs. thereafter.
This is for the coil spring.....see if maybe you missed a step in here:
Remove the shock absorber.
Install a spring compressor through the upper spring seat opening and bolt it to the lower spring seat using the lower shock absorber mounting holes.
Remove the lower spring seat pivot retaining nuts, then tighten the compressor tool to compress the spring about 1" (25.4mm).
Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands at the subframe (allowing the control arms to hang free).
Remove the front wheel and pull the lower spring seat out away from the car, then slowly release the spring tension and remove the coil spring and lower spring seat. To install:
Place the spring compressor through the coil spring and tape the rubber spring cushion to the small diameter end of the spring (upper).
Place the lower spring seat against the spring with the end of the coil against the formed shoulder in the seat. The shoulder and coil end face inwards, toward the engine, when the spring is installed.
Place the spring up against the upper seat, then align the lower spring seat pivot so that the retaining studs will enter the holes in the upper control arm.
Compress the coil spring and install the spring.
Then install the wheel and tire and lower the car to the floor (to place weight on suspension).
Install and tighten lower spring seat spindle retaining nuts and tighten them to 35 ft. lbs.
Remove the spring compressor and install the shock absorber.
Hey, I'm having the same problem. I found this with a little help from a small site I found called Google:
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/repair3.htm
Here's what he suggests. I have no clue what it means but I'm sure that it cane be decoded with some manuals:
Technics SL1210 , 1979 ? Intermittent loss of one channel. The headshell was slightly loose on the tonearm and moving inwards would cause loss of one channel. To remove this arm undo the slotted lock ring at the very top of the arm pivot and undo the central pin. The arm with jiggling can then be removed assuming enough slack in the signal wires. Undoing the 2 watchmakers screws near the headshell allows removal of the 4 pin connector. Presumably the wires inside the tone arm at this connector could touch the inside of the tonearm and lead to break in sprung connection. Placed a bit of brass shim in the slack area and pushed back in to wedge tight. Also removed the soft washer on the plug shaft of the headshell.
Check to make sure you have a nice solid connection on your tonearm from your cartridge. The problem is either your tonearm or your RCA (red/white) cables.
Neither are easy repairs, unless you have soldering skills/experience. The tonearm replacement is the more difficult and more costly of the two.
Parts for the unit can be purchased HERE. If you have any questions about testing your unit on the exact cause, please feel free to give our TECHS a call - they are available 24/7 for your convenience @ 1.866.668.1596 ext 1
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