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has the system air filters been serviced lately
is the system circulation fab been cleaned to allow full air circulation of the system
call in a technician to check for vermin infestation preventing the system from working properly
I dont know if this indicates a malfunction or not. One user manual may cover several years while many modifications can take place. Ask yourself if any other part of the process can contribute to this. You have electricity to the control board or it will not flash these display indicators. Is the water on? Is the waterline kinked under or behind the machine? Is it connected to hot water? A heater raises the hot water quickly but cold water takes alot longer to reach operating temp. Since the hottest program id pots and pans, this may indicate the heater is bad but since you were able to change the display to pp and normal I think you entered into a controls sequence that technicians can do to make changes to some parameters like temperature setting or water hardness. See if you can get a whirlpool tech to break the grip on his service manual and send you a page by email. Good luck.
The limit switch in a Ge oven usually works or is blown. I would look at the oven sensor located at the back of the oven. It should read approximately 1k ohm at room temperature. http://www.on-timeappliance.com/ovenrepair.html
After I have been reading up on your unit it appears that the thermostat is not operating correctly. I found this real basic information on installation for your unit. This link I am giving is pretty basic instal schematics. But seems to be something about your thermostat needs to be dialed in or is not working properly.
Could be the heater or the thermostat are toast.The unit is trying/waiting for the water to heat up and it does not get that signal.
Check the heater with a meter, should be about 30 ohms.Check the hi-limit thermostat should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
You may also want to stop it during a fill and add a quart or so of boiling water.Then let it continue the cycle.If it goes then it is probably a water heat problem.
I recommend slowly pouring in about a half a pot of cold water without coffee in the filter basket 5 or so minutes before you brew in the morning. There are 2 good reasons to do this- 1. Overnight you are having some evaporation due to the fact that your Bunn brewer has a reservoir that keeps a couple of pots worth of water at brewing temperature... a better temp than most "home" model brewers. This will top off the reservoir and you will not "short pot" except for the amount that the grounds themselves hold back. 2. Also overnight, due to the fact that the water is kept hot, the oxygen can dissipate from the water in the tank. Topping off with fresh water will mean a fresher first pot. The Bunn brewers have a low wattage/keep warm heater so the actual heating element isn't doing all of the work over those long periods... it only kicks on when the temperature in the reservoir drops considerably (like after brewing). Be sure to let the brewer heat back up before brewing (you will hear it stop heating) Hope this helps.
Underneath the hot pad that the carafe sits on, there are two thermal fuses that are inside tubes that are clamped to the heating element with spring clamps.
Remove the bottom of the unit (5 screws), unclamp the thermal fuse tubes, slide the tubes to one side and check the each fuse with an ohmmeter. If one of them is open, that's your problem.
Is there any way that I can repair the element if this is the case?
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