When I choose a cycle on the actuator dial and then close the door the water supply does not begin. How do I fix this?

As soon as the waser begins the wash cycle pause, open door record water level in sump.

Close door and continue cycle until machine faults and stops.

Open door, record water level in sump.

Compare before and after. If level is low that the flapper valve that allows the water to drain is stuck open and the water is draining into the sink as the unit is washing.

To confirm, if the washer drain hose is connect to the neck of the disposal or sink drain, observe the drain after restarting the wash cycle from the beginning. If water is trickling out from the dishwasher while it is washing then it is confirmed the drain door is not closed if equipped with that configuration.

All washers have a process and hardware to drain. Some have a sepperate drain pump

Hope thisd helpd?

Wild guess, by turning off and on you have oppened the soap dispenser before the cycle starts. So, set to the cycle you want then close the door. If it does not start at your chosen cycle, advance the dial untill a click and it should start.

When you first start a load, the machine does perform several self checks. One of them is the door lock test. It locks the door and checks a loop back signal from the lock. At this point, it usually tests the drain pump to make sure it cycles on and off. In my case, the Maytag unit we own actually unlocks the door and immediately locks it again right before the actual wash cycle begins. I suppose this is a double check because if the door indicates it is unlocked, the washer won't do anything (like fill up with water, or spin...anything that either floods the room and hurts somebody). The door switch should be the impetus to start the tests. If the switch is mounted to an adjustable bracket, or the bracket is loose, then maybe it is being pushed out of position when you close the door. The fact that you can open the door after it unlocks, re-close it and the machine works normally tells me there is adjustment that needs to be made. Either the the little lever or pin that actuates the switch is bent or broken, or the door needs to be adjusted on its hinges to get the pin aligned correctly. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

Kindest regards, Carl

Here is a video on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pghabRPuyPE

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

You did not include a model number so this is very generic. When an ice maker slows or stops production often the problem is not the ice maker but a symptom of other problems. The biggest reason they stop working and you still have water in door is that here is an ice block on the evaporator coils. The freezer has to cool down to 14 - 16 F before the ice maker thermostat will actuate and begine the harvest cycle.

There are other reasons they stop working
1. The inlet water valve solenoid has failed
2. The inlet water valve is clogged with debris only on the ice maker supply side.
3. The ice maker thermostat fails
4. The ice maker fill fill tube is frozen closed ( 5. The ice maker module or (optics depending upon model) has failed
6. The evaporator fan is turning to slow or not working.
If you would respond with a model number I may be able to send you links to a manual or 2 that would help you troubleshoot.

Now... back to the beginning.. IF you note ice build up / lots of frost in the back of the freezer do the following:
1. Unplug the unit and remove freezer contents
2. Direct a fan into the freezer compartment for just about 2 hours. (water mess)
3. While the unit is defrosting open the lower back of the unit (Compressor area) and clean the condenser coils and fan. Make sure to also clean the drip pan and the END of the compartment drain tube.
4. Clean up the water mess and return the unit to normal service.

If it starts making ice in 6 - 8 hours you have an automatic defrost system problem. Possible causes for NOT defrosting automatically:
1. Defrost control or timer failure (depending on model)
2. Defrost heating element failure
3. Defrost thermostat or thermistor failure depending upon model.
4. Wiring.

Everything should be fine for at least 2 days. If there is an automatic defrosting problem, the ice production will slow and then stop as more ice builds up on the evaporator coils.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Sounds like your door switch is bad. When you open your door the the door switch is supposed to shut off the motor to prevent someone from breaking an arm, by reaching into a rotating drum. First check to make sure that your switch actuator is not jammed or broken. This little arm is usually behind the door at the top of the recessed area. When you close the door it actuates the switch. When you press on the arm you should hear a click. Replace the switch or check the actuator if you don't hear a click. (some switches come with the arm and some are seperate from the actuator arm.) Good luck, Appliance Specialists

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Here is what the manual says:

3. Icer-ette freezes but water does not come into mold; no ice production.
_____________________________________________________________

3A. Nonfunctioning water valve assembly. 3A. Clean or replace solenoid valve assembly.

3B. Mold heater assembly. 3B. Contact Raritan Technical Support.

3C. Water supply turned off. 3C. Provide pressurized water.

3D. Icemaker module. 3D. Replace icemaker module.

3E. Cold control. 3E. Replace cold control.
3F. Bad wiring harness plug contacts. 3F. Contact Raritan Technical Support.*

Although this is for troubleshooting non optical sensor refrigerators:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
The troubleshooting procedures for cycling the unit are exactly the same,
The ice maker module part number for the 120V unit is PN 628366 (do a net search for this part number and save yourslef a bumch of money if you fetermine your moduleis bad) You start the harvest cycle by removing the front cover and then jumpering test points T to H. The white dial will begin to move if there is power to the module. Remove the jumper when the sweep arm reaches 5" o'clock and let the ice maker automatically cycle. It should harvest, and fill in on complete turn of the white dial. If it does not fill you probably have a water supply or water valve problem. There is an inline input power fuse for the ice maker. Power should come in via the red wire.

Mind you the ice maker has an internal thermostat behind the module assy that has to reach 15 deg F to start the harvest cycle. When you jumper T to H you are bypassing the thermostat. If the thermostat fails or the unit does not reach 15 deg F then the harvest cycle will never begin.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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Larry,
The float is generally for overflow conditions and will interrupt power to the fill valve solenoid.
If you are not filling completely in the time allowed by the timer, it is most likely a flow restriction in the water supply. Barring other obvious restrictions, the fill valve has filter screens on the inlet side of the fill valve, which is generally the cause of your symptoms. Be careful if you attempt to clean the screens, as the fill valves are very sensitive to debris, and can become stuck open if sediment gets past the screen. I usually replace the fill valve to avoid future problems.
Hope this helps.

sounds as if its a door latch/lock issue, not recognizing the door closed will simply beep 3 times when the start button is depressed. try unplugging and replugging after 2 min.

Try some WD40 on the machine door mechanism, not on the door; & open/close the door while the machine switch is off, for the mech to become free.