The compressor reset button trips often, , it reads within the specs under load 8-10amp or reset at 12amp , I hard wired it and its been working fine for 20 days now , should I buy a new reset button

I have a recurring problem with a GE Profile PSB48LSRABV. Here's an example sequence:

• Fresh food compartment set to 37F on the control panel (for months)
• Thermometer in fridge reads 46F (with lots of water inside per manual)
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 37F
• Turn power off, count to 15, turn power on, wait for control panel to boot
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 46F (matches thermometer!)
• Compressor runs and cools fresh food compartment
• Hours later thermometer in fridge reads 37-38 (yeah!)
• Press "Display Temp" button shows fridge at 37F
• Within days, the fridge is warmer inside again, thermometer inside reads 45+, but display reads 37 - unit needs to be "rebooted" again!

Fresh food thermistor from top of cabinet measured properly in ice water (and warmer water), the unit has always passed all the self-tests, and condensor coils and fan are clean, so I had techs come give it a shot under home warranty:

• Trip 1 - Tech came to assess, ordered new evaporator fan
• Trip 2 - Replaced fresh food evaporator fan (note new fan is working in fridge, and old fan works fine on bench)
• Trip 3 - Ordered main computer PCBA
• Trip 4 - Replaced main computer PCBA

Unfortunately, it continues the same cycle of misreading the temperature until power cycles, and taking a day off of work for each visit is getting painful.
Any ideas?

If the compressor is tripping the breaker when it tries to come on it will indicate a shorted to ground compressor. To check nthe compressor follow thes instructions. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Its your reset button on the compressor that's bad! I have the exact same compressor (EC89) and it did the same thing! Compressor would run great for 15-20 seconds, then trip the reset button. I ordered a new reset button off e-bay, replaced it, and it works fine now. Good overall compressor! but has cheep china electronics installed. just replace the reset button and you will be good to go....cheep fix!!!

Looks like it should be a 35/3 370VAC. If it is not legible on the old capacitor read the data plate on the fan motor and compressor. These should say "uf" or "mfd" rating. Good Luck!!

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With pressure in tank test for leak at the check valve. Follow the discharge line from the pump to the tank. There you will find the checkvalve (usually brass valve). If the check valve leaks the compressor will be under load when motor tries to start and will probably trip breaker. Look for reset button (red button )on the compressor motor and push-in to reset. With pressure in tank the motor /pump should turn freely by hand. If checkvalve good and unit turns freely, test capacitor for proper valve. It should test to within 95% of printed uf/mfd. Good holidays

Several things to check. Amp draw to be within number on plate, if amp draw not correct check capacitor, should be within 5% of rating on cap.. If amp draw about right and cap reads good suspect faulty breaker. If amp draw high and cap. good check for leak at in-tank check valve. With pressure in tank remove hose at check valve spray soapy water. If check valve good, suspect reed valves leaking. If reeds are leaking the compressor will take longer than normal to fill and the discharge tube/air will get very hot. It is recommended to note the amount of time it takes to fill tank when unit is new and compare this as unit wears. Length of time to fill is an indication of how well unit is working. A combination of leaky valves and leaking fittings as well as leaking checkvalve will cause motor to overheat.

To check the start capacitor, you will need a multi meter with a Mfd reading capability. The micro farads are listed on the capacitor and the reading should be within 5 mfds of what is needed. To check it, you need to pull the wires from the (Herm.) terminal and place your leads on the bare terminals. If your mfd reading is good, then the next step is to check the compressor. First, if your compressor has ran low/high on refrigerant, it can over-heat and trip the internal overload switch and will not operate until it is back at normal temperatures. You can check continuity through the compressor wires with a meter, you should have continuity through all 3 wires, if not, the internal switch is tripped or your motor windings have broke inside. Another easy but not always "sure" way to check this is to feel your compressor. If it feels extremely hot, it's more than likely the internal overload switch. You can check for a shorted compressor by checking continuity through the compressor wires and a good ground on the unit, usually the best place is one of the copper lines. This would usually blow a fuse or trip a breaker though and the fan wouldn't work. Hope this points you in the right direction and sorry for the "long" reply, but these things are rarely ever simple. You can buy a new capacitor at your local A/C supply store for a lot cheaper than getting charged to fix it, just be sure all your power is disconnected before you do anything, it bites hard! Good luck!

1. Check the breaker to see if it has been tripped.
2. Check fuses on the outside disconnect switch.
3. Check contactor switch inside electrical panel on outside unit to make sure it is getting a call for cooling, you will hear a humming sound if it is working.
4. Capacitor is bad. Check with a multi-meter that read micro farads. Remove wires from the Herm terminal and place leads on bare terminals. Mfds should read within 5mfds of what capacitor is rated.

Anything else would require trouble-shooting the compressor which can get extensive. Also if you have tripped a breaker or blew a fuse, the compressor could have shorted out. In case of a short, do not keep trying to replace fuses or resetting the breaker. Hope this points you in the right direction!

run the machine, after it trips, unplug and carefully touch the motor,it may have a bad capacitor, or dry bearings causing it to draw excessive current,if these 2 things are not it, then look for a bare wire that may be touching case during this part of the cycle,and if you can get an "Amprobe" it reads current and check machines current draw during the start to trip current

You will need to put an amp meter on the compressor wires and monitor the reading till it trips the breaker. If the reading exceeds the name plate spec then chances are the compressor is going bad.If the spec is in watts, take your amp reading and multiply it by 120 volts this will give you the wattage of the compressor. For a second opinion take it to repairshop to see if it is worth repairing.
Good Luck!