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Maytag discharge into wastepipe backs up, floods laundry room.
My previous Whirlpool top loader discharged its water perfectly fine
thru our current 1 1/2" dia PVC waste pipe into our septic system. It was replaced by
a Maytag Model MAV6000, which
discharges water much faster, backs up the waste pipe and floods the
laundry area.
Our easiest solution was to discharge the water into a laundry tub, which buffered the flow into the 1 1/2" dia and we live accordingly.
We
now want to remove the laundry tub to rearrange the area and create
more usable space, How then to prevent the backup?
ReModeling
for a 2"dia PVC waste system, is not an option. I presume all modern
top loader washers will present a similar discharge problem.
My initial thought is to power the washer thru an
industrial grade electrical timer, which interrupts the exiting water cycle thru several
on-off pulsations, without interfering with the native control and resetting the cycle(s).
Another thought is to substitute an appropriate 2-speed
motor so that the wash cycle discharge is at a slower speed and spin cycle is at
normal high speed. Or do I do the same with a less vigorous pump?
Another solution is to get a new washer with an appropriately slower discharge (longer time). My wife likes this approach.
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You probably have a restriction in your drain down line of the sink-our sink does this because of the size of the discharge hose we run out to the garden to use the water for the garden-so you may want to have a plumber snake out your line-cheers Denny
A washing machine discharges water water at a very high velocity and high capacity. This is far more waste water than the pump was designed to handle. The washer discharge must be connected to what's called an "indirect waste", that is, it must discharge into a laundry tub or sump, so that the excess can be stored until it can be taken by the pump. The specific code that governs this is in chapter 27 of the International Residential Code.
Also in the manufacturers instructions, they allow the discharge from a washing machine ,through an indirect waste. [sic] "The Sanivite is a drain pump that is ideally suitable for use in a basement apartment or anywhere in the house where additional fixtures are most wanted. It will pump waste water away from a variety of sources such as: a kitchen sink, laundry sink, washing machine ***(indirect connection)***, dishwasher, bar sink, etc."
This pump will never be able to handle the discharge directly and you need to provide a receptor to accommodate a washing machine. Is there any possibility of adding a laundry tub adjacent the washer and Sanivite pump?
Hi, follow the instruction below to clear the clooged hose.....
Pull the washer 2 to 3 feet away from the wall so you have enough room to access the drain pipe.
Locate the drain discharge hose where it comes out from the back of the washing machine. Typically it will be a 1 1/2-inch hose and leads to the drain in the floor, wall or laundry tub.
Detach the discharge hose from the drain. The hose may be secured by a squeeze clamp or screw clamp or it may just be inserted directly with no clamp. Use pliers for the squeeze clamp, screwdriver for a screw clamp or pull the hose straight up, depending on how it is secured.
Insert the pipe snake into the open drain until you feel the clog release. Typically this will be very close to the top rather than several feet down.
Check the drain hose section that is attached to the washer. If there is another clogged area, you will be able to see it; snag it with the wire and pull it out.
Replace the drain discharge hose into the drain and check all connections to ensure there will be no water escaping.
Move the washer back into place. It will now drain properly.
Whirlpool has really gone to sh.t over the years. Don't know why they can't spend more money on quality control. Maybe cause they used most of it to acquire Maytag. Anyways, I digress. This F20 code says you got insufficient water supply.
Free things: Have the water company come out and check the water pressure, turn water valves all the way up, check the hoses to make sure they are not kinked, check the inlet water ports to make sure they are not clogged, don't install one of those stupid Watts Flood Safe hoses from Home Depot, and make sure your discharge hose has no sag in it and goes straight up and then bends into the discharge pipe.
Now you gots ta pay: Water Valve Whirlpool part # 8540751 or get you a Flow Meter part # 10110225
If you don't want to deal with all this bullsh.t, then take the thing back for refund and get you a different brand.
your water mixing valves are leaking by
this is a very easy repair
three screws keep the top down on the back
slide the top backwards then lift
the water valve is right there on the back wall
call apliance parts pro
877-477-7278
order part number AP3128776
41.00 a few dollars cheaper than sears
Scott, Believe me, if the water level were ever several inches above the glass, you'd know about it 'cause it would flood your laundry room. Seriously. See? That rubber door boot/seal is not water tight (like a submarine) when the door is closed and locked, it's water "resistant".
Front loaders often appear as though the level is low, but they are designed this way. The clothing actually tumbles through the water as opposed to soaking in water like a top loader.
All of that to say that you have nothing to be concerned about. Your water level is fine.
SG
p.s. If your water level switch had failed, as you suspected, the water level would be too high and leak out the door.
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