Ice Maker Not Making Ice

In order to keep your refrigerator's ice maker working properly, there are some components that will require routine maintenance and inspection. Some of the most common problems that can occur with your ice maker are the ice maker not making any ice, making too much ice and not shutting off, the ice tasting bad, ice cubes too small or discolored and ice cubes not ejecting from the ice maker. Checking your ice maker for potential problems on a regular basis will keep it operating efficiently.

1.Inspect the water supply line for any signs of cracking or crimps in the line. A pinched water supply line can keep the water from getting to the ice maker, resulting in no ice or smaller than desired ice cubes. Check to verify that the water supply valve is open enough to provide an adequate supply of water to the ice maker.

2. Flush out the water supply lines if you are noticing a bad taste in the ice cubes. This can be done by disconnecting the lines and running hot water through them. Turn on the hot water at the kitchen sink and place one end of the water supply line near the tap, holding it in place to allow hot water to run through it. Place the other end of the supply line in the sink to allow the water to drain through.

3 Reattach the water supply lines to the water supply and refrigerator. Repeat step 2 for the water inlet hose which runs from the inlet valve to the ice maker. If the water supply lines are old or discolored, consider replacing them with new water supply lines.

4 Check the temperature in your freezer to verify that it is getting cold enough. The freezer's temperature should be at 5 degrees and can be set with a control dial, normally located in the refrigerator compartment of your appliance. To test the freezer's temperature, place a cup of cooking oil in the freezer with a cooking thermometer sitting in the cooking oil. Allow the oil to sit in the freezer for 2 hours and then check the temperature.

5 Check the ice maker's shutoff arm to verify that it is operating properly. To work normally, the shutoff arm should be in the lowered position. Inspect the arm for anything blocking it or preventing the arm from moving freely. Lift the arm up to see if the unit shuts off in the up position.

6 Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet and remove the faceplate of the ice maker's shutoff switch with a screwdriver, located on the ice maker. Remove the entire ice maker unit from the freezer by undoing the screws that are holding it in place. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer and take it out of the freezer to work on.

7 Remove the mounting plate on the top of the ice maker by unscrewing the screws and lifting it off the unit. Locate the shutoff switch, which has three electrical wires attached to it. The shutoff switch is located directly under the shutoff arm of the ice maker. Pull the electrical wires off of the shutoff switch with needle-nose pliers and label them so you know how to put them back correctly.

8 Inspect the electrical terminals for any rust or corrosion. Use an electrical testing meter to verify that the shutoff switch is working properly. You should get a reading of 0 or infinity on the meter. If the shutoff switch is not giving a reading, replace it with a new switch and reattach the electrical wires to the switch.

9 Place the mounting plate back over the ice maker and attach it with screws, then reattach the entire ice maker unit to the freezer. Plug the ice maker wiring back into the freezer and put the face plate back over the front of the ice maker.

10 Plug the refrigerator back into the electrical outlet and allow the refrigerator to run for a couple hours. Inspect the ice maker to verify that it is working properly.

Hope this tips would help you.
Good day! : )

hello sir

if ur ice maker

Makes no ice

• Check the shutoff arm
• Check the supply valve
• Inspect the water supply line
• Test the shutoff switch
• Check the freezer temperature
• Inspect the ejector gear
• Test the ejector motor
• Test the ice mold heater
• Test the holding switch
• Test the water inlet switch
• Test the thermostat
• Test the water inlet valve

Check the shutoff arm, the shutoff arm fails to move upward when the ice bucket is full.

Check the water pressure. If there is not enough pressure, the ice maker will not have enough water to make ice.If water flow pressure is good, check solenoid valve activate and also it's cleaned.

Locate your ice maker, remove the ice bucket. Pull the cover off the end of the ice maker. Locate the holes "V" and "L". Take a paper clip (jump clip) and tape. Straight the clip and put tape in middle. Hold the taped side and insert the clip into "V" and "L". This sends the power to water valve. If water goes into ice-maker, water valve is good. If notreplace solenoid.

Check the freezer temperature. The proper freezer temperature should be around 5 degrees. The warmer it is in the freezer, the more difficult it is to make ice. thanks, helpful?

Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm or switch (depending on
models) in the OFF position?

Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned on?

Has the ice maker just been installed? Is the freezer
temperature cold enough to produce ice? Wait 24 hours
after ice maker hookup for ice production to begin. Allow
3 days after ice production begins to completely fill ice
container.

Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice
been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been
connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is
turned on.

Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow
24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.

Is there a water filter installed on the refrigerator? The filter
may be clogged or installed incorrectly.

Is an ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm?
For models with an interior ice bin, remove the ice from the
ejector arm with a plastic utensil.

Is a reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
your cold water supply? Make sue your connections are secure.

check the Shutoff Arm:

An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown below

The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.

check the Shutoff Switch:

Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.

Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.

good sign its flashing , woth door open depress the left side flap oppiste the blinkin light. does the light then go solid red??? i fso its an indication that the electricl eye is operating ok .
theres a screw 1/4 in. along the right side underneath the icemaker itself, youll need to removeit and the cover its holding down. you can then slide the ice maker assy foward and out of machine,There will be another litle tab along loeft side uder ice maker youll need to depress to ppulll unit out. pry off the white cover from front of the ice maker assy itself and have a look at the main gear 2 in. round, is it broken off, or on its way top breaking( sometimes the tabs that hold it on to the ice maker module itself break preventing operation, if this is the case youll need to repalce the ice maker assy.

canyou acess theice amker assy itself??
can you look intor the icemaker make sure nothings blocking ice maker from turning(ice cubed jammed in )
look into the fill tube make sure itsnot frozen
thinkin htis machin hasan electronic "eye" if so htere a trouble shoooter under the kickplate explaining the mechanism
lastly theres a white cover plate on the front of the assy. remove the cover and loook at the white gear in the center of unit. look real close at the tabsholding that gear on.MOST common causeof failure is the ice torques the main gear and those tabs snap. if htats the case , replace the ice maker assy.

you can take out the screws that hold the ice maker to the freezer wall unplug the ice maker take off the front cover remove the four screws holding the motor module which is brown take that off and reattach the shutoff bail arm and reassemble. their is a gold forked metal piece in there the bail arm has to be in that fork .or you can replace the ice maker

What kind of controls does your ice maker use to make and shutoff the water. Does it use electronics or mechanical arm that raises to shut off the water?.

Tammi, you first want to check to make sure the water inlet tube to the icemaker is not frozen shut. Next, get yourself a jumper wire about 4 inches long with the ends stripped exposing the wire on each end. Pull off the ice maker cover, it will pull right off. Now you are looking at the module. On the module, left side, you will see two test points marked V and L. Insert one end of the jumper wire into V and the other marked L. You are now sending 120 volts to the water valve and water should fill the ice maker providing the inlet tube is not frozen over. If it doesn't fill, you either have a bad water valve or module itself. Also check to see if the clips that hold the center gear on the module are not broken. Catriver..post back.