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Heating element
Often
a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker
or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special
wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity
means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating
elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside
the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually
embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the
fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A
common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the
dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and
the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Heating roller warm-up error 1
?? After the main switch is turned on or the cover is closed, the
increment of the heating roller temperature per 10 seconds is 30°C
or less. If this condition is detected five times consecutively, SC 542 is defined.
?? The heating roller temperature does not reach 100°C for 15
seconds after the heating lamp on.
?? The heating roller temperature does not reach the ready
temperature while 60 seconds after the heating lamp on.
?? The center temperature of the heating roller does not reach the
ready temperature for 30 seconds after the both edge temperature
of the heating roller has reached the ready temperature.
?? Dirty or defective thermopile
?? Defective thermistor
?? Defective heating roller lamp
1. Check if the heating roller thermistor is firmly connected.
2. Replace the thermistor.
3. Check or replace the thermopile.
4. Replace the heating roller lamp.
geralgraciano.pt
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