The top part of the tub (on a top load Maytag) bounces out of control when the spin cycle starts. I made sure clothes are relatively evenly distributed. Upon further inspection the tub seems to be too loose. I understand there should be some play, but it now seems to be totally unatached. Are there rubber ties that need to be replaced?
SOURCE: Nylon or plastic bushing around tub breaking down
sounds like you have abadrear bearing, not cost effective to repair by you, parts have a 5-10 yrs warr, you would need to check your manual, usuallt wind up replacing, the rear drum, inner basket, without warr theese parts are probalby 650 dollars. so i would call an authorized servicer(whirlpool wont send you parts even though they're warr)
SOURCE: Kenmore HE 110.4751 front load
soild metal part fits in groove around door boot spring goes in at bottom they can be tough to get back on after inserting in groove around seal you'll have to stretch the spring and pop it under at the same time band will try to come back out and roll seal back off lip..good luck
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel Washer Leaking
For those with water on floor after wash, check my post on "eco smart won't drain, smells hot". It could be something clogging drainage area at very bottom of the tub. I couldn't see the sock that was stuck in my FP's drain when I looked from the top between the white outer tub and the wash tub--everything looked fine. Then I removed the black motor/white plastic housing piece--Tip back washer and you should see this black electric motor/white housing on bottom. see my post for how to remove and check for plugged drain. it's really pretty easy.
don't know about outer tub holes, but glad i don't have that problem.
i hate my fisher paykel washer/dryer. i can't wait to sell this house--i will leave them here and get a new front load Duette for my next house!
SOURCE: eco smart won't drain, smells hot
hi
you commented on hearing water in the machine after the wash , i know that f&p spin bowls have a liquid inside the actual spin bowl system i think it aids in the spin operation of the machine, but if you had something in the drain network then that will stop the machine from emptingout as it all works on a time basis check and see that you are not getting any leaks from the bottom of the machime as your new pump won't last long if it gets wet also if there is water leaking that can be the main seal on the motor shaft failing
cheers grant
SOURCE: Maytag washer MAV551EEWW top load with loose tub
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing.
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
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