SOURCE: Smell
Your whole freezer bottom is probably removeable. you mat have to remove the doors and the separator bar in front to get this out. Then you will be able to access the spill.
SOURCE: can't get the fishy smell out of fridge....used
I was watching tv the other day and they said if you want to get rid of awlful smelly smells use newspaper. Put newspaper in the frig and close the door. Let set for like two days and repeat. The newspaper will absorb the smell somehow because of the chemicals it has. It works great with pickle jars. no kidding.
SOURCE: we have a hotpoint RLA 34 ( MICROBAN ) FRIDGE .
You said no blocked drainage hole, where was the drainage hole that you checked located? Did you pour water down this drain, and furthermore did you check that the water you poured into the drain flowed into the condensate pan on the outside of the fridge? Unless you have a problem with an ice maker leaking water, it sounds very much like you do have a blocked drainage hole, otherwise known as a defrost drain. the drain system begins underneath the evaporator coil inside the freezer, this is where the water that is collected in the defrost cycle flows into a drain tube that leads the water down to the condensate pan. The best and safest way to clear out this drain is to blow it out with compressed air, after you remove any and all ice at the beginning of the drainage system, in other words, the hole located underneath the evaporator coil.
SOURCE: Hotpoint model CTXZ1D1BBRWW has water
The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.
Fig. Fig. 1: To remove the instrument cluster, first remove the trim panel by removing the lower fascia panel
Fig. Fig. 2: With the lower fascia moved aside, remove the lower trim panel attaching screws ...
Fig. Fig. 3: ... as well as the upper attaching screws
Fig. Fig. 4: Then pull the entire instrument trim panel from the dash board
Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of the instrument cluster
Fig. Fig. 6: Rear view of the instrument cluster wire routing and connections
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I figured it out. The trim is held by pins, mostly in the corners. I got it loose and used a plastic pot scraper (spatula would work) to pop it off. Then the thing with the buttons is held by plastic trim around the top. Then remove four screws and unplug/unclip the wires and you're ready to install the heater. It thawed my water line, which had been frozen for months, in seven hours. GOT WATER.
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