Reconsider ... Reconsider ...
My comments are general in nature since you have left out a lot of information to make this answer specific to your model.
What kind of load does this hot tub represent? It is probably heated electrically ... if that is the case, I would guess that the load is at least 50 amps on 220 V, maybe more, possibly less. If you convert to 110, your (amp) load will be at least twice that size! you will have to change the heater and the motor to run on 110, it will just not work as well as when running on 220. You may not be able to run the existing motor and heater on the lower voltage, requiring replacement (if available).
Your tub must be protected by a GFI (rated at 60 amps 220 volts) and the supply wire should be #6 three conductor with ground.
If you convert (if it is convertable at all) you will still need a GFI, it will have to be at least 100 amps and your power wire will be #2. I suspect you will not be able to make the attachment of #2 wire (or even #4, if it is legal in your area) to the tub due to size constraints in the connection box. Go to the store and take a look at these wires on the shelf. Aluminum #2 is the size of your finger and you would need three of them to connect at 110 volts.
220 volt 60 amp GFI at the big box store is about $90.00. Did you get wire with the tub? Is it #6, 3 conductor with ground (red/black/white/green)? Maybe #4? Will it reach your power source?
Unless there is space in your power panel for this large double pole GFI, you will likely have to have a sub panel installed. If you are very clever and skilled at working on power panels, you may be able to do this yourself. I suggest you have this done by a licensed electrician. In any event, I would encourage you to comply with the local codes in your community - which are in place for the protection of you and your family.
Look here for generic information on installation. Look in particular at page 3 of the instruction. http://www.premiumleisure.com/Manuals/nov07/ZSeriesSpaManual.pdf
While the picture shows small wire (for clarity?), it looks like #14 wire to me, in bold print, the instruction says use #6 wire, and it should be copper, NOT aluminum. If it is a long distance from the power panel to the tub, you may want to consider increasing the size to #4 to account for power drop. In this case, you would put a standard 220 V 60 amp breaker in the main panel and run #4 to the GFI in a sub panel that is located at least 5 feet away from the tub. The sub panel should be water tight and be lockable, if out of doors. You could run #6 from the GFI to the tub, if your local code allows.
My friend, just wiring this tub without modification is a big, expensive and potentially dangerous job, requiring expertise, knowledge and patience. Changing the heart and nerve system of this device is beyond the expertise of most home owners, if possible at all. Good luck with your project.
BTW, I am not a licensed electrician, though I do have extensive electrical experience, including installing and maintaining hundreds of power pedestals, residential and commercial wiring and power systems around swimming pools. I am a Certified Pool Operator ... and when the time comes, I would be glad to answer your water maintenance questions.
I do have and did install my own hot tub.
I hope this helps you with your question ... thanks for your interest in FixYa.com. If your found this information helpful, a positive vote would be appreciated.
698 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×