Wm2277hw is leaking water from the bottom... does not appear to be coming from a hose at the back. The washer is on a pedestal and water was dripping into the drawer, was wet between the washer and the pedestal, and leaking out from under the pedestal. Did not see any water leaking out the back.

Make sure that you get the pedestal designed for your washer. The white pedestal for the GHW9400P would be LAB2700MQ. (There are slight differences in the pedestals for different series washers. The holes in the base of the washer will not line up with the holes in the pedestal for a mismatched combination.)

First if your washer has been installed, uninstall it. You need to turn off the water. Then disconnect the power cord and (carefully) the fill hoses. Loosen the hoses first and then completely remove them. Drain the hoses into a bucket. Disconnect the drain hose from the back of the washer. Use pliers to squeeze the clamp to get the drain hose loose.

Pull the washer away from the wall. Cover the area behind the washer with cardboard and tip the washer onto its back (on the cardboard).

Pull out the drawer of the pedestal. Next snap the spacers into the holes on the top of the pedestal. (These are part of the hardware kit in the drawer of the pedestal.) Remove the shipping spacers from the front of the pedestal (behind the drawer). Remove the Philips head screw from the drawer slides and pull the drawer completely out (save the screws). Push the slides back into the pedestal.

Look at the washer and remove the feet if present. Partially install two of the hex head screws from the pedestal installation kit in the bottom holes of the washer. (These are at the center back of the washer if it is standing up.) Leave the screws about 3/8" from the bottom of the washer. Move the pedestal over to the washer and slide the keyhole openings of the pedestal over the two partially installed screws. Position the pedestal against the top of the washer and insert the remaining two hex head screws. Do not tighten completely.

Align the pedestal with the base of the washer on all sides. When it is lined up, tighten the 4 screws by reaching through the drawer opening of the pedestal. Bring the washer and pedestal back upright. Reinstall the washer (remove the packaging if this was a new install). Level (front to back and side to side) the washer using the pedestal feet (again reach through the drawer opening). Make sure that all 4 feet touch the floor. Tighten all 4 locknuts.

Pull out the drawer slides and reinstall the drawer. Reinstall the Philips screws. Close the drawer.

For pictures of the install, go to the Whirlpool support site http://www.whirlpool.com/owner_center . Search for your pedestal and get the installation manual. The direct link for the LAB2700MQ0 install is http://www.kitchenaid.ca/assets/pdfs/literature/Installation%20Instructions%20-%208537141.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

probably has a pin hole leak where it has been rubbing the tub. Does the tub have a seal at the top of it where it meets the top. Could be the seal is going bad.

Hi. The most likely source of a leak that you can feel is the hose washer where it connects to the washer, if it leaks constantly. I use a mirror to peer behind stuff, and it works pretty well. The easiest way to confirm this is to slide the machine out far enough to see it in action (leaking, that is). Channel locks will usually tighten up the hose, but if the hose and hose washers are old, you should replace the washer. The washer is the same as those used in garden hoses, and can be found at any hardware store. Manuals can be found at the bottom of the FixYa page.
Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution - thanx!

Can you describe where the leak may becoming from? For example, near the front, from under the washer, or near the back.

If you notice a pool of water coming from under the washer near the FRONT, this is commonly caused by a leaking water pump. Since these pumps are sealed units and are considered non-serviceable, it must be replaced. They cannot be resealed or "fixed".

If the leak appears to be leaking from under the washer near the CENTER of the tub, either the tub seal is leaking or the air dome hose may have come loose. If the tub seal is leaking, it also must be replaced. If the air dome hose comes loose, however, the washer will never fill up all the way and will continuously run. This will cause a flood rather than a drip.

If the leak is coming from the REAR of the washer, this can be caused by cracked fill hoses, loose fill hose connections, a leaking drain hose, or a fill valve hose leaking.

Since you said you checked your hoses, I suspect a water pump, or something loose. Can you please confirm your symptoms and let me know?

check to see if there are any rips in the door seal,then take the bottom of the washer off you will see 3 screws holding it on. see if the water is coming out of the pump that is right behind the panel that you took off.

Sounds like you have a leak around the door bellow somewhere, or your drain pump. The bellow is the rubber gray boot the seals around the wash tub and door. You will need to remove the bottom panel under the door to be sure. Remove the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. Once removed, the panel will drop down, then off. Inspect the washer with a load running. If the bellow leaks, a tell tale sign will be moisture showing up on the concrete counter weight in the front of the washer. Double check your drain pump and hoses as well. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. The water tends to pool in the cabinet before it leaks out and drops into the pedestal drawer. If the bellow is leaking, make sure inspect it for rips and tears. You may just have a banding clamp that is loose. If the pump is leaking, make sure the clean out trap is on correctly and snug.

PS If you just purchased this washer and are experiencing problems already, this repair is covered under the one year limited warranty. Inspecting for a leak is not going to void the warranty. However, removing any major parts may. Just do an inspection to see if it is something obvious. If you suspect a part failure, get in touch with the retailer. If this was purchased from S**rs, they usually have a 30 day satisfaction guarantee. If you are not happy with the appliance, they should take it back.

Please let me know if you need further assistance.

Check your hose connections in the back for tightness and sealing (there should be some rubber seals inside the screw-in connections) and if tight and not leaking, you might have a loose clamp inside the unit, or a leaking/damaged hose, or even a defective/leaking pump. If it is brand new and returnable I'd return it for a new one rather than try to fix it...

Probably a main tub seal, big job!

try tighting the clamp on the inner tub