Leaky Tub Faucet (Antique Reproduction)

Unless there are internal plastic components that might have become swollen or otherwise distorted the cause is likely to be a buildup of limescale.

http://www.deltafaucet.com/parts/id-my-product/index.html?reset=true#wiz you should be able to track down the one you have on this "troubleshoot your product
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The dripping is most likely the water draining back down from the shower riser. Is the diverter button popping back out when the water is shut off?

The water is draining out of the fixture. It is normal.

Nice.
Paying that price for your shower faucet, I would think the supply house would work with you on that. eBay shows cross handles so they are available.
The plumbing supply store should be able to order what you want.

The faucet was installed upside down.
The shower riser pipe in the wall is to short( the distance between the faucet and shower head).
One of the biggest problems is if your shower faucet was installed with Pex pipe to the tub spout. Pex pipe will restrict the flow and force the water back up and out of the shower head.
The tub spout must be piped with at least 1/2 brass pipe nipples and fittings, or 5/8 OD. copper pipe and fittings.
Hope this helps, if you further questions please let us know.

Good for you taking on this project. The first thing I will start with, is if you are not comfortable soldering copper then I would stop and call in a plumber to install the shower. If you have soldered copper in the past and are comfortable doing so then please proceed. Give yourself 2 to 3 full days to complete the project. You will need: Plumbing permit, available from your local munucipality. It will need to be inspected after the work is completed. Solder, solder flux and propane torch Heavy suede work gloves Water Spray bottle Pipe wrench Safety Glasses Hacksaw Deburring tool for copper pipe Emery cloth Tape measure Screw driver or screw gun Mounting Screws Old blankets 5 gallon pail 1/2" Copper pipe and fittings To begin we will have to uninstall the old shower. I find it helps to take photographs of the existing system so that you can see how the new one should go back together in case you get stuck halfway through the project and cannot see how to finish it off correctly. If you can access the shower from the other side of the wall, great. If not you will need to remove the shower surround or tile on the end wall where the plumbing is. Be sure to protect the tub with an old comforter or something to keep the tub from getting scratched up during construction. Before removing the old shower be sure to locate the shut off valves and close them. Turn both hot and cold on in the shower to remove any water pressure in the lines. Disassemble all the trim pieces of the old shower including the tub spout, handles, diverter and shower head. Take measurements of the existing piping to assist you when it comes time to cut and assemble the new copper. Do not reuse any of the old fittings. They will be very difficult to solder and new ones are very cheap. You should have 2 copper risers coming out of the floor, one cold, one hot. Cut them approx 12" above the floor. Repeat the same process for the tub spout and the shower riser. With all 4 pipes cut you can now remove the brass manifold from the 2X4 blocking. Disassemble the shower flange pipe from the copper shower riser. You should now have just the cut copper risers coming out of the floor. Use the deburring tool to clean the sharp edges where you cut the risers. This will aid in soldering the new pipe in and avoid you cutting yourself on the sharp copper while you work. To be continued.

Now that everything is apart it is time to cut all the copper to proper size and mount the brass manifold on the blocking within the wall. Take a close look at the drawings on the instructions. The plastic piece that covers the brass manifold will need to be flush with the drywall so that when you install the escutcheon plate it is also flush with the drywall. Be sure to test fit all the plumbing before soldering to ensure. begin by soldering the fittings that will screw into the manifold. Once this is done begin reconnecting the plumbing system. Again I can't stress enough that if you are not comfortable or have experience soldering copper to bring in a licensed pro. Nothing worse than completing the job and finding its either not up to code or worse leaks and you have to back over the job. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can be of any further help. Sorry it took so long to finish this. I was out sick for about a week right after I completed the first part. Good luck.

do you have a 3 handle diverter?If so you must replace the washer on the middle stem

Use a pair of pliers wrapped in cloth to unscrew screen on spout take off let water run and clean screen of calcium lime and rust soak with CLR or the works and screw back on this should let it run good again

When you fitted the tap, did you put a layer of putty around the base of the tap? This should be done to seal the base and water will not leak past