I have the model listed above. It didn't have sound from the begining, just buzzing noise some of the time. If you have a fix for this I would really appreciate it. [email protected]
I have the exact same prolem. Sound was fine at first, then a buzz started to occur now and then. Eventually the sound went out and the buzz took over. Then all sound quit.I have the exact same prolem. Sound was fine at first, then a buzz started to occur now and then. Eventually the sound went out and the buzz took over. Then all sound quit.
AnonymousDec 19, 2008
my sound system has exactly the same problem, but my hom theater still working, i just have to wait til the buzz stops and then change to radio "AND I HAVE SOUND NOW" so you can change again to the cd and i cant play what ii want, its weird but i works if you dont have money or time to fix it
my sound system has exactly the same problem, but my hom theater still working, i just have to wait til the buzz stops and then change to radio "AND I HAVE SOUND NOW" so you can change again to the cd and i cant play what ii want, its weird but i works if you dont have money or time to fix it
AnonymousDec 28, 2008
i have same problem no sound can w\you disconnect the sub woofer to make it work againi have same problem no sound can w\you disconnect the sub woofer to make it work again
I have a similar problem but I don't need help, I get alot of buzzing and when it stops there no sound. So what I do is a routine everytime I am ready to watch a movie and DIVx burned movie. I'll turn the system on, let the buzzing begin, run it's course, then stop. After the buzzing stops, I turn it off, and wait till the standby disappears and listen for a faint click in the speakers. After that I turn it on, and BINGO!!! SOUND!! I have been doing this for 5 months now, and no problems yet, (knock on wood!)
Hope this helps all you folks! Late!I have a similar problem but I don't need help, I get alot of buzzing and when it stops there no sound. So what I do is a routine everytime I am ready to watch a movie and DIVx burned movie. I'll turn the system on, let the buzzing begin, run it's course, then stop. After the buzzing stops, I turn it off, and wait till the standby disappears and listen for a faint click in the speakers. After that I turn it on, and BINGO!!! SOUND!! I have been doing this for 5 months now, and no problems yet, (knock on wood!)
Hope this helps all you folks! Late!
AnonymousJan 13, 2009
Tried replacing the caps like Wheat said it worked for two days and then cut out again. It was popping every now and then after we put the new caps in. Tried replacing the caps like Wheat said it worked for two days and then cut out again. It was popping every now and then after we put the new caps in.
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I did the repair that "Whear Service" stated above and it works PERFECT now!!!! Thanks!!!
And for everyones info, the longer terminal on the capacitor is the positive, and on the board the positive side is the "empty" half of the circle, and the negative is the side with the "slash" marks
There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.
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Hi Gerhodes. The answer above is correct with one exception. The reason this has been found to be such a problem with the Phillips HTS 3450/37 model is due to the fact that parts positions numbered "C987" and "C989" are not powerful enough . If you take the "Black backplate" off (the one that the otherside actually shows outside when asembled. Right about where the plate was removed between the "Metal Wall" as it resembles and the "Main Power Conductors" which are covered by the metal top plate and wrapped in yellow or some other color tape. So, as you see that area, at the back are 4 capacitors. Two are small and neither of those two are the same size as each other or the other two in that area. There are two capacitors of those 4 that are set in a diagonal position from each other, They are the same size as each other. Those are the ones that you want to replace. They 470uF/25v. What creates the issue is that these capacitors are not large enough to handle the power needed. So, when you replace it you want the equivalent of a 470uF/35v to supply enough power. Once you replace the weaker ones with the more powerful capacitors ensuring to solder on the opposite side of plate (green side), you should be good to go. Good Luck, cJager
As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.
When we turn our TV the humming and buzzing begins! We cn mute it and it goes away and then it when we turn the sound back on the sound is back! How can we fix this?
As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.
As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V
capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the
cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio
Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change
them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close
to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity
properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will
proibably last forever now.
As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.
If the sound goes out completely, try hitting the mute button (to mute it) and then hit it again (to un-mute). I've found that this work-around typically gets it working, at least.
As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.
I have the exact same prolem. Sound was fine at first, then a buzz started to occur now and then. Eventually the sound went out and the buzz took over. Then all sound quit.
my sound system has exactly the same problem, but my hom theater still working, i just have to wait til the buzz stops and then change to radio "AND I HAVE SOUND NOW" so you can change again to the cd and i cant play what ii want, its weird but i works if you dont have money or time to fix it
i have same problem no sound can w\you disconnect the sub woofer to make it work again
I have a similar problem but I don't need help, I get alot of buzzing and when it stops there no sound. So what I do is a routine everytime I am ready to watch a movie and DIVx burned movie. I'll turn the system on, let the buzzing begin, run it's course, then stop. After the buzzing stops, I turn it off, and wait till the standby disappears and listen for a faint click in the speakers. After that I turn it on, and BINGO!!! SOUND!! I have been doing this for 5 months now, and no problems yet, (knock on wood!)
Hope this helps all you folks! Late!
Tried replacing the caps like Wheat said it worked for two days and then cut out again. It was popping every now and then after we put the new caps in.
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