HOOP WON'T MOVE WHEN IN EMBROIDERY MODE. THE NEEDLE KEEPS GOING UP AND DOWN BUT HOOP DOESN'T MOVE. WHAT IS WRONG? THIS IS ON A VIKING#1+

Ok, there are a couple of possibilities, and I'm going to include an image. I"m not sure whether you're trying to use the small or large hoop, but the first thing you should try is turn off the machine, take the hoop off entirely, then turn on the machine without anything and let it reset to its default position, which will be the center. If it has a problem there, make sure the needle it at its highest position.

Next, put the large hoop on, bring up a design, (preferably a design that came with your machine--there are sample designs in the \Library directory where the program is--that's generally in c:\program files\futuraquartet--and is designed for the hoop you're trying to use, and transmit to machine. If it tells you the hoop is the wrong size, download a patch from www.futura-support.com. If it STILL tells you you have the wrong size, reseat your USB cable into the machine and tape it in place with masking or duct tape.

The third possibility--and the one pictured in the photo I'm going to attach--is there is a tab on your hoop which indicates the hoop size, and your TAB may be off. It needs to be dead center of the sensor, which is also pictured. A while ago a BUNCH of hoops were manufactured with the tabs slightly off, and if it's off, your machine can't read the size. What generally happens there, though, is it will indicate that there is NO hoop attached, rather than the wrong size.

You can see the sensors--they're inside the arm where you put your hoop, and they're not covered up. Below it are the large hoop (top), and small hoop (bottom). The hoop tabs have to match up to the sensors exactly, and you'll be able to see if it doesn't by matching up the notch in the hoop that matches the catch in the embroidery arm.

That's an indicator that something is wrong with the machine, but it's usually user fixable. I'm going to assume that that happens when you attach the embroidery unit and turn the machine on. It indicates that for whatever reason, your machine cannot move the hoop to its default position. That could be because you have the small hoop attached (turn it on with NO hoops), the needle is not in its HIGHEST position, or the unit itself is not making a complete connection. Make sure that it is on solid level surface, raise the needle to its highest position (ALWAYS turn the wheel towards you), make sure the unit is making solid contact, and remove all hoops, and then try turning it on.

Sounds like the embroidery arm belt stop is out of adjustment. Unless you're pretty handy, take the machine and arm to a professional. If you're going to tackle it yourself, get a service manual for the machine.

Close your futura file & exit, switch off your futura machine. Disconnect the embroidery unit from the machine,move the hoop carriage a bit to the left then to the right & it should be able to move. Connect back embroidery unit to your futura machine,ensuring the connecting point click properly. Re thread the machine & ensure needle is fully up position. Now you switch on the machine, you will see hoop carriage moving and stop at its zero point. If that is OK and the earlier led blinking gone, you should be able to operate the futura embroidery program again.

That would depend on if you have a regular home sewing machine or a embroidery machine. I'm going to assume that you have a regular machine.

There is something called free hand embroidery. you lower or disengage the feed dogs, take off the presser foot. Some use a darning foot and others just leave the foot off. Hopefully your design is already marked on the fabric. Place fabric in a regular hand embroidery so they fabric is right side up but the hoop makes it sit down in the rings. (make sense) Fit your hoop on the bed of the sewing machine, under the presser foot/presser foot bar. Lower the presser foot lever. (important for tension) and select stitch style and length. you may need to adjust tensions too.

Begin stitching, take a couple stitches... then reverse a couple... then snip the loose ends. Continue to stitch, guiding the hoop so that the needle follows the design. Start slowly and as you discover how your hand movements effect the length of the stitches... you can speed up and slow down as you need to create your design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylMy6QdsZr4

I agree with sylviaivie about find another repairman, they are suppose
to guarantee the work they do.
when the upper shaft is replaced & then the machine is retimed
the machine should work just fine.
but just don't take it back to that man to be repaired
here is a tip if it happens again,,
always try to cut the top thread first,
& turn the machine up on it's back to access the bottom cover
take the cover off the bottom to get access to the bobbin thread
where you can cut the bobbin thread
then you should be able to get the needle out without breaking it &
damaging the upper shaft, replace the needle & make sure
that the thread is good quality & not knotty, clean out the bobbin area of lint or thread
always change the needle on the embroidery machine every project
make sure the bobbin area is kept clean of lint or thread
clean under the needle plate at least once a week for lint if you
embroidery everyday or just often

Have you calibrated your machine to the hoop? Read that part of your user manual, it sounds as if it needs the hoop calibration.
Rick

1. What do I need to get started at free machine embroidery?
   • A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your zigzag stitches too.
     
   • An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
     
   • An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood, has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring, separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better tension on the fabric.
     
   • Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery, as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water, leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very nice. It's expensive though.
     
   • Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the piece from the fabric.
     
   • Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery thread available.
     
   • Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought? Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a problem with this to date.
     
2. How do I prepare the machine and fabric for free machine embroidery? Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
   
3. How do I lock the thread at the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to unravel? Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.

When you switch the machine on with the embroidery unit on, it is suppose to calibrate itself and move the bottom left position. If not, the problem lies with the embroidery unit. If the machine is still under warranty your dealer should fix it free of charge.

The embroidery unit needs to be calibrated. Can only been done by a trained dealer. you can relax, it is not a major issue and shuold not cost you a arm and a leg. Ask the dealer to also calibrate your touch screen and download the working hours on your machine.

Regards

dupina