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1. Open the door. 2. on the door appature above the lock mechanism toward the outer skin of the door you should see two holes one ovalish shaped and one round shaped. 3. pry covers off circular hole (inner). 4. insert hook type tool (if you dont have one make one by putting a cheap small flathead scredriver in the vice and bending it into a small L shape at the end about 5mm. 5. pull latch mechanism loose (you will have to look for the latch with a small light or feel around for it. 6. put outer door handle capping (the stubby part) out by prying off gently and then wiggling. 7. slide main part of door handle toward newly exposed hole created by removing capping and then remove.
8. thank me for saving you from tearing your hair out. If we all bought Japanese we wouldent have these ****** problems.
Please use this link to view an exploded view of your washer. http://www.apwagner.com/large_image_viewer.php?image=images/diagrams/00204/i411639.GIF You cannot remove the baffles without disassembling the entire tub assemblys. To access the inside of the washer cabinet remove the two or three phillips head screws at the bottom of the front of the washer and the lower panel below the door will come off to give you access. If your ring is anywhere it is probably caught inside the lint/debris trap #40 on the diagram. You will want to remove the entire rubber drain boot that connects between the pump and the bottom of the outer tub. Also try to reach inside the tub with your hand through the hole where the rubber drain boot connected if you do not find it in the lint trap.
I would not recommend anyone other than a skilled technician attempt to disassemble the wash tubs on this machine. Good luck to you on this!!
first check the fuse, it is common to blow the fuse while plugging in as the center pin can touch eath(outer tube) and inner bottom clip at the same time.
Typically desktop PCs have 4 to 6 phillips case screws that fasten the outer metal skin to the back of the case chassis. These can be found by looking at the back of the PC and following the skin edge until you find each screw. The screws are typically near the corners and halfway between top and bottom. Once removed, the outer skin will slide back and then lift up. In tower PCs, only the left side (facing the PC) has to come off requiring only two or three screws to be removed. Panel will then slide back and fall away. Reconnecting case or panel may require aligning rails or hooks and sliding towards front. Reapply screws.
yes a ceramic 15 or 20 amp fuse replace only with ceramic fuse sold at most hardware stores,its under outer cover its a 1" long by 1/8" dia white glass tube
The filter panel may be replaced from the top or bottom but it's less hassle to replace from the bottom because the top tray retains a small amount of water and also because you must be mindful of working around the feed tube assembly. Also, when replacing the filter panel, clean both trays (requires removing both trays, water feed tube and drain tube) and drain tube ... use a 8 water -1 bleach diluted solution or other anti-bacterial solution and wipe the trays and pour some into the removed drain tube (not the feed tube!) and shake it up a bit. Be careful though as you do not want bleach solution getting in your eyes, nor on your skin and clothes!
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