Carrier cassette aircon cannot turn off by using remote control after power failure,must turn off by using the circuit breaker.It runs for 20 minutes and stops.Operation and timer lamps blinking,cannot turn off again,aircon very new ,seldom use.Was running perfectly ok previouly.
SOURCE: not turning on
Hi
Try to reset the unit by disconnecting the power supply for 10sec. and operate the unit. If it wont work replace your Room Air and Coil Thersmistor or test the thersmistor with mulitester. The resistance reading of thermistor is 10 kilo ohms @25deg. C room temp. If it is shorted or open the unit wont operate.
Hope this can help :)
SOURCE: I have a CH WL611701AJ compressor.
This may seem a bit simplistic but how are you hooked up to the outlet? Are you using an extension cord or is the compressor plugged in only using the supplied power cord?
If you are using an extension cord then you are going to pop the breaker every time you use it. Infact the manual states
"Never use an extension cord with this product. Use additional air hose instead of an extension cord to avoid power loss and
permanent motor damage. Use of an extension cord voids the warranty."
Air compressors don't like extension cords.
It simply draws to much for an extension cord to handle.
Depending on whether or not your warranty is out there is a simple solution. Find the biggest gauge extension cord you can
If your not using an extension cord and it's ran in the past where it's
plugged in now then check the circuit because there must be new draw on
the breaker
You said the breaker is 20amp. correct? The compressor should be run on a breaker dedicated to the compressor only.
Even though you should use a longer hose instead of a longer power cord you can get away with it. But forget about wire gauge size you need to think wire diameter. The extension cord I made for my compressor is approximately 3/4" thick. That is the only way I was able to use an extension cord on mine. A good place to get that size cable is a boat supply store. The cable used for shore power on boats works.
Hope this helps but if not please let me know and I'll try and help anyway I can to solve your problem.
SOURCE: I have a T103 Intermatic timer controlling the
Let's review your wiring. There's probably something miswired when you get symptoms like that. Let's work one circuit at a time.
For circuit #1, the incoming (LINE) black (hot) wire is connected to the #3 terminal. The white (neutral) is connected to the "A" terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is connected to the "GR" terminal (the green screw on the case).
The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the first set of lights is connected to terminal #4 and the outgoing white (neutral) wire connects to the "A" terminal. The outgoing bare wire to the lights goes to the "GR" terminal. It's best to twist the wires together with a pigtail, wirenut them and connect the pigtail to the "GR" terminal.
Now for separate circuit #2. The incoming (LINE) black (hot) connects to terminal #1. The incoming white (neutral) connects to terminal "A". The incoming bare wire connects to the "GR" terminal.
The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the 2nd set of lights connects to the #2 terminal. The outgoing white (neutral) goes to the "A" terminal. It's OK to twist all the white neutral wires (incoming _and_ outgoing for _both_ circuits) together with a pigtail that goes to the "A" terminal. Use a red wirenut.
As long as you don't load the 15 amp breaker over 12 amps (this is considered a continuous circuit and it cannot be loaded over 80% per NEC), you don't have to have two circuits if you don't want too. Figure about 1 amp per light as long as the lights aren't over 100 watt. (100 watt lamp/120 volts = 0.83 amps (round to one amp)
SOURCE: Compressor won't sstay running and trip breaker
You gave a lot of information, but you didn't say if it worked when free wheeling. If not, I would suspect the inertia switch. If it is working, you should hear it click when the motor is winding down after being shut off, at least when free wheeling. A 20 amp breaker will certainly handle a 15 FLA motor, even on startup. They don't trip at 20 amps exactly, especially on a simple overload. Even at twice the rated amperage, it can take several minutes to trip it. They will trip quickly on a dead short, however, or a severe overload. I doubt the windings are shorted or it either wouldn't work (start windings) or would run at a slower speed with the inertia switch constantly tripping in and out with it coasting while tripped in (i.e., accelerate, coast, accelerate, coast, etc.)
SOURCE: TOYO TA-09CHS aircon problem
TOYO mini split air conditioner made in Japan is very very good quality and it can runs for 20 years without any problem. You didn't hire a best ac technician to install your TOYO unit. The tubing connection between indoor unit and outdoor unit is not the right torque and refrigerant leak. Your TOYO unit runs out of refrigerant. You need fix the leak and fully charge the system. You will solve the problem.
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