Can you please help me find out what makes my fan motor slowly stops running after about 30 minutes. The unit runs fine but after about 30 minutes the motor sounds like it slowing down and wants to trip. if the unit is off the motor runs freely. but if i spin the fan and start the unit up the fan will stop running and is making a humming noise. I took the motor apart and cleaned the shaft and bushings. but iam wondering if it could be the capacitor going out. thanks jim

Capacitor
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a capacitor in the compressor circuit to help the compressor motor to start and if the capacitor has failed then the compressor won't run. If the compressor doesn't run or if the overload device continues to trip, then you may have a defective capacitor. An accurate diagnosis can be determined by a qualified person using special test equipment.
Overload
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a device in the compressor circuit called an overload and it is used to protect the compressor motor from damage. If the overload has failed then the compressor won't start. If you have verified that the compressor doesn't run, then you can test the overload for continuity with a multi-meter. A common cause for the overload to fail is from operating the dehumidifier on long or undersized extension cords.
Fan Motor

If your dehumidifier is not making water and you have verified that the ambient temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then you may have a faulty fan motor. For proper operation, a dehumidifier needs to have an adequate amount of air blowing across the evaporator coils to prevent frost or ice buildup. If you feel little or no air coming through the grille area and the filter is clean, then remove the cover and check the fan area. Inspect the coils to make sure that they are not restricted with lint or dirt and clean them if necessary. Make sure that the fan motor rotates freely and that the fan blade or blower wheel is firmly attached to the motor shaft. Using caution, operate the unit in a fan only mode and observe the fan motor. If it hums but does not rotate or only rotates slowly then it is defective and will need to be replaced. If the motor does not rotate and does not appear to make any sound, it may still be defective, but will require further testing by someone who is comfortable with using a multi-meter and working with live electrical circuits.
Electronic Control Board or PCB Assembly

If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor or fan motor may not be operating. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator, and the fan motor blows air across the evaporator coils to extract the moisture. On some modern dehumidifiers an electronic control board, often called the PCB, is used to control the compressor and fan motor. The control board has sensors connected to it that monitor the relative humidity and when the level is higher than the control setting, the control board will activate relays to turn on the compressor and fan motor. If you have an electronic control model and the compressor or the fan is not operating, then the electronic control may be at fault. A voltage test, using a multi-meter at the output relays, would be required to help in the diagnosis as well as confirmation that the sensors are operating normally.

the problem is dry bushes on the fan shaft. It is best to replace the fan motor unless you have a good appliance electrician who can pull the motor apart ad knows how to lubricate the bushes.

After cleaning the filter, i had to unplug the unit to clear the ch 67 error code before the unit would run again.

Is it only the fan motor running that you hear? Or is it the compressor motor and the fan motor in combination?

If it's just the fan motor, it running to circulate the air, in an effort to sense humidity in the air, above the level you have the humidifier set on. Speaking of which, you may have the level set higher than what the humidity is in the house and the unit is just maintaining it. 50 to 60% is high, as opposed to 35%, which is what most folks want to maintain in the hot, humid, summer months.

If you want to test the unit, place in the bathroom, turn a hot shower ON, turn the humidifier ON and set it for 45% or minimum if your unit does not have a LED readout screen. Do Not turn the bathroom exhaust fan ON. As you leave the bathroom, close the door and don't return for 20 minutes. When you do, turn the shower OFF and check the humidifiers water collection bucket. If you see any water, the unit is working as it should. If you don't see any water, it's time to replace that unit. I say that because, at best, the parts and labor to repair the unit would be equal to or almost equal to, the price of a new dehumidifier.

Hope this helped you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks

Keep in mind, that a dehumidifier only draws humidity from the air, if the level of humidity is higher than what the controls are set on. The fan running, may be the automatic defrost cycle, that defrost the coils, if they become frosted over. The defrost cycle, depending on the unit and how is was designed, can last any where from 15 minutes up to 45 minutes.

Also, a dirty air intake filter makes the unit strain to keep up and can't take in moisture as it should. So, if you haven't cleaned the filter on a regular basis, not is the time to do so. And while your at it, clean the cooling coils too.

The easiest and best way to test a dehumidifier at home, to see if it's working properly. Is to place it in the bathroom and turn the shower ON and don't operate the bathroom's exhaust fan. Set the humidity level low (45%), turn the unit ON and close the door when you leave. Wait 30 to 40 minutes and check the water collection bucket. If there's water in it, it's working as it should.

Hope this helped you to solve the problem. Please let me know.

Maybe the room is dry enough so the humidity sensor is turning it off?

If not, maybe the thermisensor(fuse) on the fan motor is failing?

Is the fan running and stopping before the unit completely quits?
If the fan quits the compressor won't run very long.
I would start with the fan motor or capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the blower wheel to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.
r.

Most likely the fan motor has broken. Without the fan, the compressor will overheat. There is a safety device inside that automatically shuts off the compressor to keep the overheating from destroying it. Check to see if you can feel air movement in the front or back of the unit while it is running. If not, then the fan motor has definitely broke. I had this exact problem on mine.

If you take the unit apart, you will find a parts list inside the unit. It will be inside a small plastic pouch. You can order a new fan motor from Sears. The cost is $30 plus shipping.

You will have to move the condensing coil in the front out a bit in order to exchange the motors. Just be careful not to break any of the copper lines. They are copper so they will flex quite a bit without breaking. Still, use caution. If you break the lines, all the refrigerant will leak out and your unit will be useless.

Try cleaning out the air filter using cold water. I did not even know the unit had one until I had the same problem. Pull out the bucket. The filter is located where the front top edge of the bucket would be located if it were in the instrument. Remove it by pulling straight down. It may be taped to the instrument for shipping purposes. According to the manual, this should be done every month. I have had the machine since Katrina and this is the first time I have had a problem. Hope this helps.

You have a bad fan motor. Put your hand against the grill to see if there any air movement. You need to buy a new fan motor assembly, it is attached by two long
bolts, easy to swap, except the wiring may not be easy. May have to cut the 3 wires and resolder. Get to the motor by removing the back panel and then the fan. Removing the fan may not be easy, they put some gunk on the spidle thread.

The cheapest price I have seen for the motor is $27-$28, shipping about $8 and tax
about $1.5.