Haier hrt02wnc compact refridgerator 1.7 cubic

Having the same problem. Check the 1st page of the manual #11. It states not to keep anything in it below 40 Degrees and most meats, fish etc. need to be kept at between 33 Degrees & 40 Degrees. Mines been running constantly on High. Im returning it to Best Buy. Having the same problem. Check the 1st page of the manual #11. It states not to keep anything in it below 40 Degrees and most meats, fish etc. need to be kept at between 33 Degrees & 40 Degrees. Mines been running constantly on High. Im returning it to Best Buy.

Saw one suggestion to check the power to the compressor, but
these little Peltier coolers don't have one.



In a thermoelectric cooler heat is transferred using an electronic Peltier
Device (an array of Peltier diodes), not a Carnot engine. They are not nearly as electrically efficient
as your grandmothers Fridg, not yet anyway. But they have no moving parts.
Readily available, and affordable, commercial devices today can generate a
temperature delta of 70 degrees C.



The ability of these thermoelectric refrigerators to cool is dependent on a
real good seal. Compared to a traditional refrigerator they don't have much
cooling power. Pre-Cooling things before you put them in is an excellent suggestion.
Leaks and opening the door frequently
will heat them up in a hurry, so will putting a bunch of warm items in all at
once. However, mine is new and the seal
is perfect.



Their performance is also dependent on the ability of the exterior heat sink to
reject heat and the interior one to collect heat. It won't work if the
refrigerator is kept in a hot environment, if ice forms on the interior heat
sink, or the outside one is covered with a blanket. It is also possible that
there is not a good thermo-mechanical connection between the device and the
heat sink on one side or both. If everything else seems to be fine, you could
pull off the exterior heat sink and see if the device underneath is cold to the
touch. If it is, then you could tightly remount both heat sinks with a good
thermo-mechanical grease or adhesive between the device and the heat sink. Mine new and kept in a 70 degree F, low
humidity office so I don't have a mechanical problem.



It is also dependent on enough current getting to the Peltier device, and the
device working. The voltage across the device should be 0.8 – 34 VDC and the
current should be 1 – 20 A, typically the higher the current the higher the
voltage.



If that is your problem, and there is nothing clearly wrong with the circuit,
like a blown fuse or popped cap, you are going to need a schematic and some
knowledge of electronics to troubleshoot the circuit board.



I suspect the circuit will have a constant current source for the device, and
that the current source is turned off and by the temperature sensor, much like
a regular Fridg. But a schematic would be real nice. That's what I 'm looking
for, a schematic. Good Luck.




Saw one suggestion to check the power to the compressor, but these little Peltier coolers don't have one.

In a thermoelectric cooler heat is transferred using an electronic Peltier Device (an array of Peltier diodes), not a Carnot engine. They are not nearly as electrically efficient as your grandmothers Fridg, not yet anyway. But they have no moving parts. Readily available, and affordable, commercial devices today can generate a temperature delta of 70 degrees C.

The ability of these thermoelectric refrigerators to cool is dependent on a real good seal. Compared to a traditional refrigerator they don't have much cooling power. Pre-Cooling things before you put them in is an excellent suggestion. Leaks and opening the door frequently will heat them up in a hurry, so will putting a bunch of warm items in all at once. However, mine is new and the seal is perfect.

Their performance is also dependent on the ability of the exterior heat sink to reject heat and the interior one to collect heat. It won't work if the refrigerator is kept in a hot environment, if ice forms on the interior heat sink, or the outside one is covered with a blanket. It is also possible that there is not a good thermo-mechanical connection between the device and the heat sink on one side or both. If everything else seems to be fine, you could pull off the exterior heat sink and see if the device underneath is cold to the touch. If it is, then you could tightly remount both heat sinks with a good thermo-mechanical grease or adhesive between the device and the heat sink. Mine new and kept in a 70 degree F, low humidity office so I don't have a mechanical problem.

It is also dependent on enough current getting to the Peltier device, and the device working. The voltage across the device should be 0.8 – 34 VDC and the current should be 1 – 20 A, typically the higher the current the higher the voltage.

If that is your problem, and there is nothing clearly wrong with the circuit, like a blown fuse or popped cap, you are going to need a schematic and some knowledge of electronics to troubleshoot the circuit board.

I suspect the circuit will have a constant current source for the device, and that the current source is turned off and by the temperature sensor, much like a regular Fridg. But a schematic would be real nice. That's what I 'm looking for, a schematic. Good Luck.