The electrics have stopped working and my friend who is an electician has checked it and he said that it is receiving 240 volts from the plug but he needs to know if there is a fuse within the cooker that might have blown?

No idea but somebody else will probably come along with a better idea then mine, seems a lot of these generators have this thing installed on them (Has $25 hard start kit). Not sure what it does or how it works. Strangely enough you said you use it for 240 volt. Looked at the picture and didn't see a 240 volt connection.
If you are using the what look like the 120 volt circuits you can't over load the unit. Maximum current draw will cause it to go into protection mode and shut down the power load. The following is an exert from the owners manual which I got from Yamaha's site. Link at the end of this post.

Hope this helps


-
16
-
q
760-029
AE00788
Overload indicator light
The overload indicator light
1
comes on when an over-
load of a connected electrical device is detected, the
inverter control unit overheats, or the AC output voltage
rises. The electronic breaker will then activate, stopping
power generation in order to protect the generator and
any connected electric devices. The AC pilot light
(green) will go off and the overload indicator light (red)
will stay on, but the engine will not stop running.
When the overload indicator light comes on and power
generation stops, proceed as follows:
1. Turn off any connected electric devices and stop
the engine.
2. Reduce the total wattage of connected electric
devices within the application range.
3. Check for blockages in the cooling air inlet and
around the control unit. If any blockages are found,
remove.
4. After checking, restart the engine.
http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/assets/service/manuals/0/LIT-19626-01-23_1423.pdf

You will need to check with the instruction manual of your machine what the specifications are.

Today the 120 volt mains, I am told, is almost a thing of the past and 220 volt is much more common. The UK mains electricity used to be 250 volts but it has been lowered to 240 and eventually it will be lowered to 230 volts to bring us closer to the European specification.

Because most electrical equipment is imported and we are a minority market, electrical manafacturers didn't want to produce specail goods just for us and so for 20 years or so most of our electrical goods are suitable for use in a range of mains voltages from 220 to 240. Sometimes they are marked as such and sometimes marked as 230 volts but we are told 240 won't damage them and they will still work efficiently at 220. It is only very old electrical equipment made for 250 volts that seems slightly less efficient.

Some equipment is made for universal use and will accept 120 volt mains as well as the 220 to 240 range. In this case there is usually a provision to select a different voltage by means of a switch or by changing some simple internal wiring connections. Details of how to do this is invariably printed in the manual.
Equipment produced for 110/120 volts only would become dangerous and be soon destroyed if plugged directly into a 240 volt mains but a transformer can easily be obtained to allow 120 volt equipment to be used on 220/240 volt mains. A great many professional tools are still produced to use 120 volt electricity for reasons of safety and so auto-transformers of all sizes are commonly available and not too expensive.

I have a fairly limited experience of sewing machines but I think a domestic machine has only a very small appetite for power and a supply suitable for a reading lamp will be more than adequate. The exact wattage of your machine will be found in the instruction manual.

when you checked the elements for continuity did you remove at least one of the wires off of it,if not it will check good.if the elements are good,unplug it,pull it out and remove the back wall so you can get at the wires,plug it back in and make sure you're getting 240 volts to the bake element and 120 volts to the broil,if you have 240 volts coming to the machine at the plug and you don't have 240 at the bake element check for broken wire,if wires are good you have a bad clock assy. the relay on the computer board is bad and you'll have to change out the clock assy. unfortunitly you can't get this clock anymore but you can send it out to have it rebuilt,go here and get info,hope this helps
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/71002331/695629

You could take it to a Dyson repairer and get a quote.
I suspct it would not worth repairing and converting to 240 volts. Most likely the motor needs replacing and possible other electrical components.

Check circuit breaker at the house electric panel, if good, check for voltage (220/240)volts at the receptacle that the dryer power cord plugs into, if good, check for voltage(220/240)volts at the dryer terminal block where the dryer power cord connects to the dryer, if good, check voltages at the dryer power transformer, should be 220/240 volts for motor,and 110/115 volts control power for dryer controls, you should find the failure within these inspections/testing.
Good Luck !

Some of these ranges have two plugs, one for 240 volts for the burners themselves, one for the controls. Other issue, could have one leg of the 240 volt circuit not working, might get some heat, but not full power. Check fuses, just to be sure. In any event, you likely have two circuits: 240 volts for the power required to take care of the heat, and 120 volts for controls, timers, clocks. If only one plug, I'd expect to find a blown fuse within the appliance, or some other problem in the 120 volt circuit.

Not sure of your level of expertise to open up and trouble shoot electrical. Need to understand (1) how to kill power and (2) how to safely test a live circuit (at 240 volts.) Make sure meter is always set to 250 or greater volts, AC.

Have someone check to be sure you have 240 volts to the plug. The dryer will run on 120 volts but must have 240 volts to the heating unit. If you 240 volts you probably need a heating element or control.

You may only be receiving 110 volts, instead of the 240 volts needed to operate. (Thus, only the light coming on)

Did you reset the dryer circuit breakers?
Are you receiving 240v to the plug?

-Chad

I have traveled to Europe. Australia and China. As this is a laptop I believe your power supply is that often black box in the middle of the electric wire you plug into your laptop. I we operate on 110 volt 60 cycle electricity. The bulk of the rest of the world operates as 240 volts and mostly 50 cycles. The power supplies for laptop I used overseas indicated they operated from 110 - 240 volts and 50 to 60 cycles approximately (small print on the adapter). If your adapter does not handle 240 volt and 50 - 60 cycle requirement you may need to secure another before leaving. The real challenge is to have the right plug adapter for the country you are in. Our two and three prong plugs do not work anywhere else I've been without adapters excluding soem bathrooms for electric shavers only and some universal plugs I have seen installed in China on my last trip (but even in China they were rare). My friend bought two different versions of adapters I believe at Radio Shack - one was a small bag of adapters that covered all of Europe and more recently a single adapter with sliders that could adjust to all the separate adapters he purchased before. I had the experience of buying an adapter in China where I do not speak Mandarin -- pointing at a British adapter and drawing the US plug got me what I wanted however you may wish to solve this problem before you arrive in Europe. Assuming you purchase adapters before leaving the clerk at the store may be able to confirm the suitability of your power supply for general european operation, I tended to double check with the local hotel staff or friends keeping in mind that all counties and some areas can be different.

When you plug something into a conventional duplex receptacle (the type that receives two appliance plugs), and the device doesn't work, trouble shooting the problem is fairly simple. For large receptacles that run on 220 to 240 volts, such as ranges and dryers and air conditioners, call an electrician unless you're well-versed in electrical repairs and safety issues. Always check when installing if the appliance is rated from 15 to 50 amps, 240 volts, and 20 to 50 amps, 120/240 volts. They have two hot wires (red and black) and a separate grounding wire. Receptacle basics Conventional duplex receptacles have two places to plug in electrical cords or devices. Each of those two places includes one narrow slot, one wide slot, and a semicircular hole. The narrow slot is the "hot" side, connected to the black wire of the electrical system. The wide slot is the "neutral" side, connected to the white wire. And the semicircular hole is the ground, connected to a bare or green wire or the electrical system's ground. Many electrical plugs have one wide blade and one narrow blade (and, in some cases, a ground plug) that match the receptacle's slots to insure that the circuit is properly connected to the electrical device. Wires may be attached to screws on each side of the receptacle or plugged into terminal holes in the back of the receptacle. Whether wires attached to screw terminals or are pushed into rear-mount terminals, the screw terminals on the sides of the receptacle are hot (charged) so don't touch them!