To remove the front of the dryer you must first take off the control panel It starts with 2 small screws (one each side ) just up and under the overhang on each side. Then take the two screws out of the white cover plate that is above the washer lid. The cover plate that is angled toward you. Once that cover plate is off you can remove 4 screws to remove the aluminum cover plate that hides the electrical connections. ( Which of course aren't live as you already unplugged or turned off the power to the unit). Once the aluminum cover is off you can see the dryer exhaust connection and some of the electrical connections. Remove the last two screws for the control panel ( which are now visible). Disconnect the electrical connections 2 or 3 as well as the safety override wire. (These are all plug type type connectors). Put the control panel aside. Now go to the top of the dryer and remove the 4 or 6 screws holding the lid on the dryer. Remove the lid. You now have access to the dryer drum (which is much lighter than you think and easy to remove (write ups elsewhere)). You can also remove and replace the heating element, the idler arm and the drive belts. (Hint:, before disconnecting the drive belts and idler arm draw them. They assemble backwards to the way your brain thinks after the fact).
To get to the washer is completely different. You start by removing the 2 screws at the front of the washer at floor level. Once these are out you can remove the front of the washer by pushing the panel down to release it. ( about 1/2 inch). Once the panel is off you then remove a screw under the top of the washer at the front on each side. The lid can now be removed. From there you have access to the water inlet valve, the idler arm, the drum, the motor, the drain, etc etc .
Have fun and cheers
SOURCE: No Heat on Kenmore Gas Dryer Model 417
Hi, You need to change the coils on the top of the gas valve. This is a very common problem with the newer gas dryers. We have them for $29.95 on out web site www.whilpoolpartssurplus.com
If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Thanks
Vic
SOURCE: Kenmore Model 94812301 Stackable Washer/Dryer
try adjusting the feet on the bottom. apart from that the bearings may need replacing.
SOURCE: Kenmore model #417 40042990 Front Load Washer is
I would firstly take the back cover off and check the belt has not come off. Then check that the drain pump is not blocked.
SOURCE: kenmore stack washer/dryer combo. model #
There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.
It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.
First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.
As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.
With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.
A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.
As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!
When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
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