Hot surface light for one elemernt has stopped working. it worked, then started flickering when hot. How simple to repair? Is this likely a full element replacement or is there just replaceable sensor?

Hi Tricia, I assume this is a GE unit?

Check this link from Appliance Blog that deals with this problem.

Appliance Repair Forums

Most likely the problem is in the heat control switch.Cannot be repaired you will have to replace it. To make sure, swap it with one of the other burners that do not have the problem. If the problem goes away, you know its the switch.

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about why the hot surface indicator light will not go out...

Oven Hot Surface Indicator Light stays on

heatman101

I have the same problem with mine. Do you have any answer yet?

I have the same problem. I had a repair man here and he said the main powder logic board ( WB23T10014) was the problem, it would cost $757 to fix. I ordered the board for $230 and installed it myself but still have the F113 problem.

Sounds like a thermal switch which controls the hot surface light is stuck closed.

If this is a new unit, I'd return it. If not, I would check the switche(s) for the hot surface light -- when the unit is cold, unplug one wire going to the thermal switch and check it for electrical continuity. If you get current from a multi-meter through the switch, replace it -- it's not opening when it cools down.

Charlie

Scott,
On each of the heating elements there is a thermostat that does two things. It is a high limit safety thermostat and then a different set of contacts turn on the hot surface light. Unfortunately, you can't just replace that part. You will need to isolate which element it is with a mutimeter and replace the entire element.When you turn one of the units on high you will see a dark line under the glass running 1/2 way across the elements. Those are the thermostats... Find the defective one and the rest is pretty simple to replace

Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair clinic.com is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The grainger.com part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.

Hold the button down 5-6 seconds and it will go off...then to cut on...press down again for 5-6 seconds and it will come back on.

Our success has been to heat the elements to hot for about 5 minutes. Then let cool to reset temp sensor.

Can cause the problem by turning a burner on for a short period of time