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Don't know if you still need this, but the 'tamper' aka shock absorber aka gas strut for the warming drawer EGW3060 has the Miele part no. 8127920. It's likely the designs of most of their drawers are the same, but it would be worth checking with the Miele spares department who I've always found very helpful in discussing and supplying spares, contrary to their reputation (although they won't supply technical documentation of course). If you want to try getting hold of the original manufacturer's part, it's a Stabilus Lift-o-Mat 5601YG 0085N.
Our EGW3060 has got through three of these gas struts in its 11-year life - it's clearly a weak point of the design. I have a feeling that Miele changed the spec of the gas strut to 85N force (originally 50N) at some stage, to provide a sharper 'snap' to the closure. Fitting is incredibly easy, but if you've found the mechanism you know that already. Hope this helps.
Hello David, I am JK. I understand that you are having trouble with the drawer staying closed on your pedestal. I would recommend checking to make certain that nothing is caught under the pedestal keeping the drawer from closing properly. If this is not the concern, the strike and/or latch might need to be replaced.
Hope this helps!
The lock lever on the unit --- that is shaped like a U --- if you have it ---may be bent a little. You can move it to the correct position - usually down a little --and your door will stay closed
the cd drawer will probably use infra-red to sense when the drawer is open or closed or maybe just a gear mechanism, either way these must be clean, I'd take it apart and lean it all with cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol
Hi Paul Lehto - I understand that the drawer will not close, however may you please provide me the model number so I can assist you better in pinpointing you the information.
There is a 'plug and socket' connector at the back of the warming drawer which does wear and eventually start to make erratic or no electrical contact. The drawer electronics read this as an open drawer and switch off the power to the heating element (flashing red light). If your competent the drawer can be stripped down and the contacts serviced or replaced otherwise consult a service technician.
Okay, I fixed it for now. The design for this bottom freezer drawer is not good. What happened was most likely that my son slammed the door, and it bounced and was slightly open. Overnight, ice started to form all over the compartment, including inside the drawer guides. Some ice was probably obstructing the drawer glide from sliding shut.
What I did, not thinking this was the solution, was to prop chairs against the drawer to close it while I searched for answers on the Internet. In the meantime, some of this ice must have refrozen in the closed position (due to the weight of the chairs). When I went to check it later, I had a little trouble opening the drawer. I gave it a hard yank and some small frost flew off, as I opened the drawer.
It was not easy sliding it due to the frost. I then moved it out and in until it felt smooth, and finally closed the drawer and it stayed in the shut position.
Kids are instructed to close the drawer gently and visually check that it is sealed. There is also an air passage between the refrigerator unit and the freezer so that when you close the double french doors, some air pushed to the freezer section and momentarily pops the drawer open. You should make sure that the drawer closes before leaving the kitchen. If you are on vacation, prop chairs to make sure both the freezer drawer and the french doors stay closed. This is important if you're in an earthquake area as a small tremor could open the doors and you'll get a fire when the lights stay on and burn through the wiring (as others have noted).
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