I have a FISHER Model RS-914A and I don't know what's the value of R211 and R212 . I removed these resistors and they measured 222 ohms. But I don't know if the value is 220 ohm. please help me with this problem. thanks

The correct value of the brake resistor circuit for your GE washing machine may vary depending on the specific model and other factors. However, according to some sources, the typical resistance for a GE washing machine brake resistor circuit is around 25-30 Ohms. If you are measuring 47 Ohms, this could indicate that there is an issue with the circuit, which could be causing the error code and the problem with the spin cycle. You may want to check for any loose connections or damaged components in the circuit, and consider replacing the resistor if necessary. If you are not comfortable with electrical repairs, it may be best to contact a qualified technician for assistance.

The resistor is 4.7ohms +/-5%

OK but what problems? Please describe.

Let us use a bit of logic to resolve this... I have an Axiom but it would be a lot of screws to take out to get to the part... so let us think about this. The resistor value starts with a "1" and we know it is 5% tolerance (gold). we know the resistor burnt up with likely 5 volts on it... Value could be 1000 ohms, however the voltages present (12 volts max) would NOT have burned up a resistor of 1000 ohms. The USB area is mostly 5 volts and across 100 ohms is only a quarter watt... not enough to really burn up a resistor... First thing is to MEASURE that the resistor s open... in spite of being burned, it MAY still be OK... these resistors now usually either open or remain close to their value. The resistor ALSO may be a fusible resistor intended to act as a fuse... Is the resistor open or not? is it near a resistance with a "1" as the first digit? If it is not open I suspect it is not all of the problem. In that case, look for a burned circuit trace on the board. If it is open, then MEASURE the voltage across the resistor with the power applied. If you find 5 volts, then it MIGHT be a 10 ohm used to limit the USB current to 500ma. Get back to me with your findings... I have unraveled many of these things...

247 is .050 watt15K ohm
404 is 0,25Watt 1K ohm
420 is 0.5 watt 10K ohm
513 is 0.25watt 100 ohm

However if you dont understand them dont play around with them you may end up doing more damage than what you have now. If resistors blow then some other fault has caused excess power to fuse them and that takes knowledge of how to measure the current at each step. Some of these resistors are related to the power board. Getting circuit diagrams from toshiba is difficult Quite often there is a diagram inside the chassis of each model.

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470 Ohm 3Watts

The dial could have a desoldered pin or oxydized slider contacts. Try to resolder the pins, but if that doesn't solve it then you would need to disassemble and clean the internal slide contacts on the dial which can be a bit difficult, so the alternative is to replace the dial if you can find a spare one.

To bypass the dial (with fixed resistances) you need to know the resistance at each side of the dial when it is in the position that suits your needs (connect the snare to a working input, set the sensitivity as needed, mark the position of the dial).

The resistance can be measured with an ohm meter.
To be sure that the measuring will be accurate, it is ok to remove the dial from the circuit board (adjacent components may affect the measured value).
You should do the measuring on a dial that is good.

After you've removed the dial, set it to the position that you marked previously.

Measure the resistance between left and middle pin of the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which you need to connect to the left and middle hole on the circuit board.
Now measure the resistance between middle and right pin on the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which will be connected to the middle and right hole on the circuit board.

Now you need to get resistors which have the values that you've measured and solder them in place of a bad dial.

It is likely that the measured value will differ from the standard fixed resistor values. To achieve the exact measured value, you can connect two or more fixed resistors in series, just make sure that the added value of the fixed resistors for each side is the same as the measured value on each side of the dial.

Now you need to solder the fixed resistors to the circuit board and the modification is complete.

If you actually decide to do this modification and you're unsure about anything, just post me some feedback, i'll be glad to help.

Anyway, hopefully it is just a desoldered pin that you need to reflux.

Regards,

Triarcuate

Here is the full procedure of how to do this bypass the system, it is not easy..

Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader. Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader

That style of package is used mostly for terminating resistors and small-value capacitors. The fact that is burned indicates resistors so you may be able to remove it and try measuring between first and/or last pins to those between. If you get a couple of close values, it is probably a seven resistor pack. In some configurations though, the common pins are not at the end(s) some you may have to experiment and measure between pins until you ferret the arrangement out. Measuring (for example) between two pins that yield 2K Ohms when others are 1K Ohm likely means that the 2K Ohm stretch is two 1Ks in series.
These normally don't fail on their own so something burned them and may do it again even if replaced.

I have the same problem, but it is open.  The color code Brown - Green - Brown - Gold.  If it is a resistor, the value must be 150 ohms +/- 5%.  To confirm the value, I open the working trimmer and remove one leg from the circuit and measure resistance.  The meter reads only 4 ohms.  Therefore, I think it is an inductor (150uH +/-5%), not resistor.