How do i replace a standard light switch with a dimmer?

unfortunately the switch needs to be replaced, meaning you will need to remove the bottom section of the dash. Its easier than it sounds, just time consuming. this youtube video will help allot. How to replace jeep cherokee headlight switch

Hi Gene,

When two 3-way switches are used to control a light - and you wish to install a dimmer, you replace only ONE of the switches. If you replace both switches with dimmers, and one dimmer is set to 50%, the light will only be able to get to 50% bright; regardless even if the other switch is set to 100%. The light can only get as bright as the current lowest dimmer position of either switch.

Most modern dimmers are solid state, and should be able to get full power to the lamps. Older dimmers aren't very efficient and work a little differently - but should still do a good job as far as brightness of the lamp. You can run into trouble trying to dim CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) if they are not labeled specifically for use with a dimmer. Even those that are labeled for use with a dimmer have a noticeably short range of dimming when compared to standard tungsten lamps, and tend to have an audible buzzing sound.

If this doesn't answer your question, please provide the wattage, type and number of lamps in the fixture. Your dimmer is rated for up to 600 watts, but may be less if it is in a switchbox with other dimmers or you have broken off portions of the heat shield as directed by the instructions.

This switch is designed to dim incandescent lamps. It has nothing in its description about being used with CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) types. If you are attempting to dim standard CFL types, it will not work.

CFL's are available in both dim-able and standard types. As you may have guessed, only those marked as "dim-able" will work with a dimmer switch. Dim-able CFLs cost slightly more than standard CFLs but may be controlled by any switch. Dimmer switches may only control incandescent and other type lamps that specifically state they are compatible with dimmer switches.

If you are attempting to dim incandescent lamps, make sure that you are not trying to dim lamps with a total wattage greater than the dimmer can handle. Most dimmer switches are rated for 600 watts, if you have two dimmer switches under one wall plate, the wattage rating drops to about 500 watts. This de-rating is because of the heat the switches create. There are dimmer switches that can dim more than 600 watts, but the price skyrockets for a 1000 watt dimmer, and keeps climbing.

If your wattage is within the limits of the dimmer, check the bulbs. If they are ok, the dimmer may have failed and require replacement.

If you found my reply helpful, please rate it "4 thumbs up". Good luck & thanks!

Hello. There could be a couple of possibilities. First is the simplest to verify, is it a Companion Dimmer, Standard Dimmer switches or a 600W or 1000W Maestro Wireless Multi-location Dimmer. The Maestro Companion Dimmers can not be used individually, as they do not control a load, and must be used along with a Maestro or Maestro Wireless Multi-location Dimmer. The Campanion Dimmers are also a line/low voltage rating, and rated for incandescent and halogen but may not handle some flourescent fixtures. The other thing I can think of is that you may have interfearence from another item. They are radio frequency (RF) devices that communicate together for wireless control of lights. Here's two links that may be of some help, the second has downloadable install instructions.

http://www.smarthome.com/6601LA/Lutron-MA-R-LA-Maestro-Companion-Dimmer-Switch-Light-Almond/p.aspx

http://www.prolighting.com/lumamaprsmre.html

Hope this helps out, don't forget to rate this answer.

Thank You,
Richard

A standard dimmer switch only needs two wires plus ground, just like a standard switch. If you are replacing a three-way switch with a dimmer, then you need a three-way dimmer switch (which has three wires). 4-way switches have 4 wires. Note, with 3-way or 4-way switches you have multiple switches controlling the same light, but only one of them can be a dimmer. good luck, Al K

This is not something that can be easily diagnosed over forums like this, because you've got a lot of possibilities for how this is wired in your home and you didn't provide that much detail. Specifically, why a 3-way device, is there another 3-pole switch in the circuit? Also, did this replace a standard light swtich, and did that light switch also control the receptacles? Another warning, if this is a standard dimmer used for lighting - please don't use on a fan load - standard dimmers don't always account for the possibility of saturating magnetic motor loads or taking out the dimmer if the fan gets locked up - that can legitimately be a safety issue.

All that said, I'll give it a shot...

I suspect that in the box (or in the other 3-way location if there is one) that there are three connections - one that gets power from the breaker, one that delivers power to the fan, and one that delivers power to the receptacles. The power coming from the breaker and going to the receptacles should be tied together and both connected to one screw of the dimmer - the remaining connection for the fan should be connected to another screw of the dimmer. It sounds like what you did was you tied the receptacle wire and the fan wire together. Again, I'm having a hard time describing in more detail than this, mainly because you mentioned the 3-way. So if you need more help, I suggest claifiying:
- What type of circuit is it (how many light switches)
- How many sets of wire are coming through the electrical box at each location?

Good luck.

Please describe the old light fixture and the new light fixture. If the new light fixture is fluorescent, then using a dimmer with it won't work and is a fire hazard - unless you have a specially designed ballast which is designed to be used with a standard dimmer. If that is what you have, then the ballast in your new fixture is bad.

the two black wires spliced are Live wires ( same value as RED) the other single black is the return. The two twisted blacks from the wall go into ther active hole of the new switch and the single into the return. No third wire for earth is needed

At any hdwe store or home center there are dbl switches available in a standard toggle or rocker (as they are sometimes called) there will be two feed screws with a jumper so power only needs to be attached at one terminal, and two screws where power exits, one for each set of lights. There should be a wiring schematic included if a boxed switch is purchased. The cover plate that is used is also used for a dbl wall outlet.

At the switch you have a common ( either a hot or a wire going to lt). And two Travelers( Wires going from one switch to the other) Make sure your not mixing one of the travelers up with the Common easy mistake happens all the time. Travelers are always in the the same at the other end of the 3w switch , you may need to take it apart and look. If you need further help send me more details I hope this helped