I want to add a light in my room which is apart of the upstairs lighting circuit. The only problem that I have is that all the terminals within the celling roses in the upstairs lighting circuit are being used. I was just wondering if I can still use these celling roses and just connect my new cable into the used terminals of the celling roses or will I have to look for an alternative way.

call an electrician for a circuit test
check for rodent chewing on cables or loose terminal connections

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-add-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-household-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

More than likely you have a bad outlet or a hot wire that came off an outlet. Where you need to look is the last outlet that was GOOD on that homerun. You are looking for a wire that has come off or broke.

1) Need more information.
Heres some help to get you started, then you add a comment and fill in details so I can give accurate answer.

2) You posted under Paragon 7008-00 timer.

3) People post under Paragon when they have Tork, so I need exact model number and what voltage you have and what Load you are trying to wire.

4) Also what terminals appear on timer, since any timer can be in a box that is marked 7008.
Then add what color wires you have coming from breaker box, what size breaker, and if same breaker is going to supply voltage to timer and to Load, and what color wires are going to Load.

5) Open following link to identify timer for sure, and see manual and wiring diagrams.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Paragon-timers-and-manuals.html#7000

6) Typical wiring diagram for 7008 showing one set of NO NC terminals:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Paragon-7008-00-timer-wiring-350.jpg

7) 7008 timer has 120Volt clock motor. So power to terminals A and B has to be 120V.
But timer can still control 120V or 240V loads.

8) According to manual, 7008 timer has 2 NO (normally open) terminals that are OFF when timer is OFF
Timer also has 2 NC (normally closed) terminals that are ON when timer is OFF

9) Both sets of terminals reverse when timer turns ON.

10) NO and NC terminals are frequently used for continuous-operation 2-speed motors, for example.
You do not want power to both speeds at same time, or motor will burn out. So low speed is connected to NO terminal, and high speed is connected to NC terminal. This way the motors windings are kept separate, and either low speed is ON or high speed is ON.

11) Another example of NO NC terminals could be store lighting. When store closes, the timer turns off exit signs and store-room lights inside store, and at same moment timer turns on burglar alarm and outdoor lights. In this example the timer controlled 4 different circuits: exit signs, store-room, alarm, and outdoor lights. With 2-NO and 2-NC terminals, that is possible.

Yes this is possible.. just configure the old router as a plain access point.

Hi there,  Have you checked to see if you have power getting to your switch? You could've tripped a circuit breaker, so I would check your electrical first to rule that out. Once you've checked for power, put your switch in the OFF position. Next, take off the light from the ceiling...leaving just the two wire's hanging down and apart from each other. If you have a voltage tester/meter, then you'd want to turn the switch ON again - then check to see if you're getting power (voltage), as well as, a complete circuit. If so, great! If not, contact me again and I'll help you further. But I believe you'll have found the problem already after following the above steps. Make sure to secure each connection when putting your light back up onto the ceiling. And, DON'T turn the switch back on until your light is securely mounted. Good Luck with this, and feel free to contact me again if this doesn't work. - Jim

try this http://www.electrical-online.com/3waydiagram.htm you do need two three way switches and 3 conductor wire running between the switches Caution high voltage enough to stop your heart and or burn you turn off the power first
Good luck

A good heating guy should be able to balance your dampers to increase the airflow upstairs. Keep in mind heat rises. 2nd floors are the hardest to cool. You may need to add more returns to pull the heat down the the evaporator so it can be cooled. If you are lucky you may be able to adjust your blower up to a higher speed. You may have to even add some more supply airs. Check with your local building inspector. He may be able to give you a list of contractors in your area that would be good for this type of problem. Good luck>>>

the tv probably has a loose solder joint or broken or cracked circuit board due to moving

The red light under the cover of the humidistat is fault light. This light typically indicates that there is an issue with your connection at the two wiring terminals labeled ODT on the humidistat. I would recommend checking to confirm that there is something currently connected to the two terminals. As a side note these two terminals can not be jumped out with a jumper, and must utilize either the outdoor temperature sensor (part 8052) or the manual mode resistor (part 4336).