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Anonymous Posted on May 28, 2010

I have a generator that does not produce any volts. I replaced the brush block because it was bad with no help. I took resistance readings of the rotor and stator. Are these in spec?? briggs and stratton model 09719-3 with a generac 5000 watt generator rotor 26.2 ohms stator red/blue .4ohms stator blue/gray .7 ohms stator gray/red .5 ohms

  • Anonymous Jun 12, 2010

    Thanks for the comment. The circuit board has all the diodes and cap on one board which is attached to the brush block. I replaced that with no help. Not sure where to go from here.

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1 Answer

Sheldon Dedek

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  • Master 912 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 12, 2010
Sheldon Dedek
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As long as you have continuity through the stator and rotor windings, and no continuity from the windings to the core, you should be good.

If the brush block was replaced due to it being defective, take a look at the diode and capacitor regulator as well. Using a multimeter, the diode should indicate continuity in one direction, infinite resistance in the other. If you get this, then replace the capacitor. If not, then replace the diode, and likely the capacitor as well.

  • Sheldon Dedek Jun 12, 2010

    Missing something here. How did the generator fail originally?

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GENERATOR WILL RUN BUT DON'T PRODUCE ELECTRIC

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Without a model number... I am guessing about what type / brand and MODEL of generator you have. I have to assume it is a Coleman Power mate.

Try flashing the field. Do this.. take and electric drill and plug into the outlets of the generator. Turn on the output power GENERATOR ON. Squeeze the drill trigger and rotate the chuck as fast as you can. This will induce voltage into the stator and they usually will start producing power. When it does produce power it will try to yank the drill chuck head out of your hand so keep that in mind.

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Remove the small cover from the center of the endbell. It covers the end of the rotor shaft and has 2 brushes under the cover.
INSPECT the brushes visually (do not remove them yet)
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Use a meter to read resistance by probing the electrical contacts of the brushes. You MUST read LOW resistance. This is the rotor winding.
No resistance or high resistance
Remove the brushes inspect for damage. Try to probe the slip rings of the rotor. (You might have to make a 14/2 Romex electiral wire extension to get some solid copper wires to touch the rotor slip rings) Again you must read LOW reistance.

If you have low resistance and the brushes are good.....
Reinstall the brushes. (TEST for AC) Start generator
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Use a meter on DC to read AVR voltage output to the brushes by probing the brush terminals. You should read 3 - 7 VDC. No voltage.... hmmmm Possibly an AVR problem but...

Try this.
Rig up a 9 Volt battery that you TAPE the wires to the battery terminals and the case of the battery
Just loosely connect the 2 wires to the brushes. Wrap the battery with a rag it might explode if you don't remove it fast enough. Your going to yank this off as soon as it produces power QUICKLY.

Plug in a light or a small fan so you can see that power is being produced. Let it run a few minutes before shutting it down.

To do anything else I need to know your generator model number to do winding and voltage regulator checks.

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Hi and wleome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Pull off the small cover on the OUTSIDE of the end bell that covers the bearing and the brushes. Using a meter on resistance scale of R X 100 or R x 1000 probe the brushes and see if you read any resistance You should see a reading of much less than 1000 ohms that would be the rotor winding resistance. If you do not have resistance then remove the brushes and check the condition and LENGHT of the brushes. The brushes should be no less than 3/8" long. If you can get your test leads into the brush holes probe the slip rings and read the rotor resistance. You must read resistance under 500 Ohms. No resistance or can not reach the slip rings remove the end bell and test rotor resistance again but probing the 2 slip rings.

Most of the time the brushes wear out or break off when a generator just suddenly stops working.

Reinstall the end bell and read for a DC voltage reading of 3 - 9 volts across the brushes after you know the brushes are in good working order. No voltage then the AVR has failed. If you have voltage then the final tests would be continuity checks of the diode and capacitor in the end bell and finally the stator windings. The dilde will ony read resistance in ONE direction. It should NOT read open or shorted in both directions. The capacitor check use R x 10,000 and probe the capacitor terminals. Reverse the leads and probe it again. You should see a brief jump in resistance and the meter will drift to infinity EACH time you reverse the leads.

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