First, try resetting the faceplate CPU by shorting the proper pins on the faceplate to radio connector on the back of the faceplate with a piece of wire... They are marked on the connector, if this fixes it for you, enjoy!
If that doesn't work, then remove the back cover of the faceplate and check the faceplate connector itself for bad solder joints. As a matter of fact, check the entire radio for bad solder joints before looking any further.
I bought one of these radios a short time ago; Everything worked except for LSB.
I was told by the radio shop I bought it from that I'd have to wait until June to get it fixed, so I opened it up myself to see if it was something easy to find/fix, since I felt that if it was anything major it wouldn't be able to get AM or USB either.
In my case, I found bad solder joints on the faceplate connectors and a bad solder joint on one of transistors attached to the heatsink.
Once I fixed those two things, it's been a great little radio.
Be sure to reset the faeplate after resoldering and assembling, to clear any errors from the CPU.
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you'll need a schematic and some knowledge. there a two diodes that control the rx and two that control the dx.Check them to make sure they are producing the correct power out put if they are not you should replace all 4
I had the same (squealing) problem on transmit with the Midland 1001Z
when I used it indoors as a base unit. The problem was my power
supply: it broke into oscillation when drawing more than 150 mA at
13.8V. The 1001Z draws about 150 mA on Receive, and much more (but
only about 900 mA) on Transmit. If using the 1001Z as a base unit, I
suggest you power it with a fully-charged car battery indoors, or test
your power supply to check if it can't supply the required 1 Amp,
approx., on Transmit. It's a GREAT radio, just give it a good power
supply. My power supply was defective out of the box, but now I have a
good one and get great reports on signal strength and audio quality.
Remarkable, for the low price and 3 year warranty. Good luck!
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