Hi,
I have a Ruud heat pump that kicks the high pressure cut off switch out. The temp at time I have been trying is 40 and above.The outside unit fan comes on in heat mode and AC mode but the inside fan on the furnace doesn't run. After a couple minutes the high pressure switch cuts out.In heat mode if I turn the t-stat high enough (3 degrees or more)the electric furnace comes on and the heat pump will run at the same time but then the heat pumps high pressure switch kicks out again leaving only the electric furnace to heat. I can't find a manual for the unit.The t-stat was moved to another wall recently this winter by an electrician and maybe just coincidence it started doing this but perhaps that may have something to do with it? Everything worked last fall. Any help would be appreciated!
That's going to be in your installer configuration. Check and make sure the G terminal has a wire connected to it at the tstat , and that connection it tight. In the configuration menu, make sure it is set for a heat pump, elected heat. It seems to me that the tstat doesn't know its connected to a heat pump. Should be able to locate aodel # for tstat on the back of it. And ask Mr. Google for a manual, if you don't have 1. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: Ruud Furnace won't turn on
Take of the access panel on the furnace and look for a wiring diagram either on the back of the panel or inside the housing. There will be a diagnostic chart on it that will give you a hint what 2 flashes mean. I think it is a "no Ignition" code. If it is, with the access panel off and the door switch taped in the closed position, the furnace will try to start if the thermostat is calling. You want to look at the control module to see if it is flashing, then you should notice a small fan that pushes out the combustion products start to turn. Then if you look in a small view port, you should see an orange glow followed by a clicking noise at the gas valve. Then you should notice a blue flame in the view port. This flame must stay on for 5-6 seconds or the unit will turn it self off. If one of these do not happen, you will need a technician to troubleshoot it. Check to see if all wires and hoses are tight and in place. Make sure your condensate hoses are not blocked and free of water. Make sure there is no blockage in your vent pipe(s). Let us know what you found.
SOURCE: ruud heat pump outside fan
You may be right in looking at the motor. It uses a different speed on heat than cool. The heat cycle uses low speed, usually red. Some manufactures use blue (medium). Cool uses black, high speed. If you are confident, switch the low speed wire with the high speed and see if this changes anything. If the fan motor isn't the problem, check the other setting (cool) if the overload trips, you may need to look into a new capacitor or compressor, if so, you can install a hard start kit. these are start boosters, and are inexpensice, sometimes they will give another year out of the comp. but I've put them on and they have lasted 5 years.
SOURCE: High Pressure cutoff
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,
SOURCE: ruud achiever 90 plus blower not working
does the furnace ignite?? your system may not have been lighting and has gone into ignition lockout count the codes of the led lights then remove panel led diagnostic codes are listed there.
if led codes indicate no problem verify capacitor is good and that mtr is getting 115 volts.
SOURCE: Clunk noise Ruud Furnace
I had the same problem, the motor shaft and bearings were going bad. There was about 3/16" travel on the shaft that the blower attaches to. I replaced the motor myself and it runs nice and quiet. I have had that noise that you describe for over 8 years, but it got real noisy about a week ago. I talked to the maintance department about it where I work and they said the motor bearings were probably going bad. They were right, I took the motor out of the furnace and they took it to a parts store and got me a new one $270.00 for it. It is a special motor due to the fact that the frame mounts bolt directly onto the motor housing. Make sure if you do this job yourself that you take the motor to the parts store so that they can match it up. The guy at the store told our maintance man if it didn't require the bolt holes in the motor housing it would have been $100.00 cheaper.
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Sorry I made a mistake in the above post. When I turn the t-stat 3 degrees or higher in the heat mode the heat pump will come on and run and also the heat and blower inside will too. The heat pump will run as long as necessary until temp desired is reached. It's only when it calls for heat again that the heat pump turns on but will kick the high pressure switch out in a couple minutes as the inside blower doesn't come on. Also the fan on position on the t-stat doesn't turn the fan on,nothing happens, but in the auto position the fan will turn on and off as it's supposed to.
That's going to be in your installer configuration. Check and make sure the G terminal has a wire connected to it at the tstat , and that connection it tight. In the configuration menu, make sure it is set for a heat pump, elected heat. It seems to me that the tstat doesn't know its connected to a heat pump. Should be able to locate aodel # for tstat on the back of it. And ask Mr. Google for a manual, if you don't have 1. Hope this helps!
That's going to be in your installer configuration. Check and make sure the G terminal has a wire connected to it at the tstat , and that connection it tight. In the configuration menu, make sure it is set for a heat pump, elected heat. It seems to me that the tstat doesn't know its connected to a heat pump. Should be able to locate aodel # for tstat on the back of it. And ask Mr. Google for a manual, if you don't have 1. Hope this helps!
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