Near the end of the dry cycle, a loud nail gun sound occurs

don't have any of them but sounds jammed from sitting . too dry. anyplace tto put oil for the driver to move?

it can be your cooling fan motor going dry and over heating tightening the bearing so there is the sound.

One question is do you regularly put oil in the gun? Also you need to make sure that the screw holding the 'clip' near the barrel is tight and not loose. These are the 2 main problems when a gun is misfiring.

I don't think it would be the bearing, as no sounds abnormal occur during it's wash cycle. I think it's at the end of the spin dry cycle, that a "brake" is applied which stops the drum from spin drying, but is being applied overly hard, which causes the drum to "BANG", stop abruptly by the brake. Only a washer repairman could deal with that problem, but, it's NOT dangerous to the washer, IF that's what the problem is. Contact a washer repairman in your area, and they'll probably be able to tell you if it's THAT or something more serious, which I doubt. The reason why the washer moves a bit when at the end of the cycle is probably because the brake which causes the spin dry cycle to come to it's end, does so very fast, which displaces the centrifugal energy abruptly towards lateral motion. Not really dangerous either.

are the fan blades bent causing a vibration. you can run the fan with the cylinder off to try and isolate the noise. Let me know

Remove nails from the gun and dry fire the gun by bumping it against thick rubber mat or coiled up rubber hose. As the gun cycles notice the feeder moving back then forward in time with the cycle. Make sure that the feeder is connected to feeder driver with a roll pin and that the check feeder is in place in the latch door. The check feeder is thin metal and should have spring action. The driver should return completely to top of cylinder with some degree of force. There should not be much air leaking out the nose as the gun cycles. If a quantity of air is leaking out nose with each cycle, then lower bumper may have broken/cracked. Replace as needed. If very little air is leaking out nose with each cycle then driver could be bent, piston oring could be worn or lack of lubrication in cylinder. If all lower parts seem good, then only area left to check is head valve. There is a 1/4 inch dia. rubber ring at the very top of head that could restrict air flow out of exhaust port. Adjust as needed. Good luck.

no your fine!!! put the supplied oil in where the hose attaches to before use!!
also be sure to drain air copmpressor daily through bottom valve rusting can occur!!
have a great day!!

Nail feeder on this gun is both air and spring controlled. Air pressure retracts the feeder and a strong spring pushes the feeder back to front. Remove nails and leave side door open. Dry fire gun very rapidly against thick rubber pad and watch the feeder retract and return. It should move very rapidly all the way back and front again. If it appears to move slower than piston is moving then follow next step. Pull the feeder back manually with tip of screwdriver. It should be very hard to overcome spring. If spring feels strong then suspect feedpiston oring or air supply to feedpiston chamber is restricted with debris from inside of the gun housing or air is leaking where body of gun mates with lower nose. There is a small white oring that seals between body and nose base. Sometimes this oring will be over-compressed thus restricting air flow into feed chamber. Remove two allen screws at front of base to split body from base and reveal this oring. Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. Good holidays

Make sure the spark plug ignites. Take tool apart as in cleaning. Hold micr switch near fan and watch as you pull trigger. you will see a spark. If not check the lead to igniter

Hi there is it a top loader or front? If a front loading machine it might be the concrete block has come loose under the top cover.

Thanks J