My stitches look good on the front, but the not in the back of the fabric. In the back, they look more like a line, than discrete stitches. My dial is set to auto on the top. Should the stitches be more stitch like on the back of the fabric?

Unfortunately, I couldn't find a specific manual for the Dial and Sew 750 sewing machine. However, I can give you some general instructions on how to use a sewing machine that may help you get started:

1. Threading the machine: Follow the threading guide and thread the machine correctly. Make sure that the presser foot is raised when threading the machine so that the thread can be properly tensioned.
2. Winding the bobbin: Place the thread spool on the spool pin and wind the thread onto the bobbin by following the instructions in your manual. Make sure to cut the thread once it's wound.
3. Installing the bobbin: Open the bobbin case and place the bobbin inside it, making sure the thread is coming off the bobbin in the correct direction. Then, pull the thread through the slit in the bobbin case and hold onto it.
4. Adjusting the stitch length and width: Depending on the fabric you're working with, you may need to adjust the stitch length and width. The stitch length controls how far apart each stitch is, while the stitch width controls the width of the stitch. The controls for adjusting these settings will be on your machine, typically on the front or side of the machine.
5. Sewing a straight stitch: Practice sewing a straight stitch by lining up the fabric with the edge of the presser foot and slowly pressing the foot pedal. Keep your hands on the fabric, guiding it through the machine. Be sure to sew at a consistent speed to maintain even stitches.
6. Using additional stitches: Many machines have a variety of stitches you can choose from. Consult your manual to learn how to select different stitches and adjust the length and width settings.
7. Finishing your sewing: Once you've finished sewing, cut the threads and remove the fabric from the machine. You may also need to clean the machine and oil it, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations.

Remember to always consult your manual for specific instructions on how to use your particular machine. Good luck with your new sewing machine!

The manual for the Bernina Bernette 65 are available from the manufacturer here: https://www.bernina.com/getdoc/6d2754b8-af09-4edb-a6a6-7a4c57965b8d/bernette-55-65-80e-90e . The three dials, from left to right, are thread tension, stitch length, and stitch width (page 9, page 12 of the PDF). See page 24 (page 42 of th ePDF for the pictures of the appearance of the correct tension versus the incorrect top thread tension. For best tension testing, use different color top and bobbin threads. Do use the same thread type and needle appropriate for your fabric and use scrap from that same fabric. In general, if the top thread is visible on the under side of the stitched fabric, increase the tension (turn the dial to a higher number). If the bobbin thread is visible on the top of the fabric, reduce the tension (lower number). Make sure that the machine is properly threaded. (Make sure that the presser foot was up during threading and is raised when you adjust the tension dial.) Start with the tension at 4 and change the tension in small steps. (Do not turn the dial more by 0.5 before stitching a line to test the tension again. You want to avoid over-correcting.) When the tension is correct, the top and bobbin threads will meet between the two layers of fabric for a normal seam.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(These steps are the same for any sewing machine with user tension adjustments.)

Check that the stitch length is set to make ~10 stitches per inch. This stitch is long enough to actually move the fabric. If the stitch length is set too short, the fabric will stay barely move and the needle will stitch almost in place.

Check that the feed dogs have not been dropped for darning or free motion quilting. In this position, they do not rise and are, therefore, unable to contact the fabric to pull it through the machine.

With the presser foot raised and using no fabric, hand rotate the handwheel and watch if the feed dogs actually drop down below the needle plate, move toward the front of the machine, then rise above the needle plate, and move toward the back of the machine. If the feed dogs are moving in this manner, then they are functioning properly.

Is there lint or gunk stuck in the feed dogs? This will restrict the ability of the feed dogs to grip the fabric.

Are the feed dogs worn? Are the little teeth worn so there are no sharp points?

What type fabric are you using? If it is very light-weight or slick fabric, the feed dogs will have a difficult time gripping the fabric. Most machines have a presser foot pressure adjustment so that more pressure is applied between the presser foot and the feed dogs. Consult your Owner's Manual. The adjustment is usually a dial either on the left side of the machine, on the front of the machine located above the needle bar, or on vintage machines it is usually a skrew located under the top lid above the needle bar.

...

A set of feed dogs typically resembles two or three short, thin metal bars, crosscut with diagonal teeth, which move back and forth in slots in a sewing machine's needle plate. Their purpose is to pull ("feed") the fabric through themachine, in discrete steps, in-between stitches.


Feed dogs - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feed_dogs Wikipedia

Lower numbers moves the fabric further for each time the needle penetrates the fabric. . If you raise the number you will get more stitches per inch which means your fabric is moving more slowly. Try moving the number to different locations for examples. If you are attempting to make something so it will stretch you are probably wanting to use a zigzag stitch. A wide zigzag stitch will allow a longer stretch than a less wide zigzag stitch.

Firstly check that you haven't got the thread ****** set for rolled hem, this is sometimes little lever on the sewing plate just in front of the foot. The stitch forms over this ****** for normal overlocking but it is retracted out of the way for rolled hemming. So if you've left it retracted, this will muck up the normal stitch.

Now for a four thread stitch, set all the tension dials to 5, after checking that all the threads are flowing freely from the spools to the tension dials and not catching anywhere. Ensure aerial is fully raised too. Stitch length on 2.5 and differential on 0. Test serge on a medium weight fabric and check the stitching.

Now adjust the cutting blade to fill out the stitch if you are getting looping off the edge. ie if it is looping off the edge move blade to the right a little bit so there is more fabric inside the seam.
And reverse if stitching is pulling up the fabric inside the stitching into a ridge, move blade left a little.

Test stitch again. Now if tension is still out, just adjust the looper tensions in very small increments to tighten up the stitches, only ever 1/2 a number movement on the dial each time and test to see what effect this has. Do top looper if it appears looser on top, lower looper if that one appears to be loose.

If the machine's tension dials have been calibrated correctly, then 5 on all should give you a half way decent stitch and you should be able to just finesse with the blade and minor adjustments on the top and bottom loopers. If you just can't get to this point at all, finger test the tension on the thread below each tension dial by pulling gently and see if they all feel like they are under the same tension, if one is way out then this dial may be faulting. Turn it to zero and see if you can clean it by "flossing" with a piece of clean waste cotton, then turn back to 5, rethread and try again. Sometimes they get a bit of thread or dust in there.

Hope this helps you with the overlocker.

Difficult to do for long distances as the feed dogs are designed to feed the fabric front to back. But on some Elnas you can turn the stitch length over into the negative on the dial and the machine will sew backwards continuously without using the reversing button.

So check if your machine has this function on the stitch length dial (manual machine obviously, computerised machine is not going to have this option).

Why would you need to do it this way, are you quilting/stitching with a large mass on the left of the needle?

As to your question about leather, the 6460 has a special stitch for sewing leather. Select Colormatic cam C and install in the cam hole at the back of the machine. To remove/add a cam turn the upper left hand dial on the front of the machine to the small dot. This disengages the cam. Gently remove the cam by pulling straight out from the back of the machine. Install cam C straight in, ever so slightly twisting it back and forth into the hole to find the sweet spot. You'll hear a click when it's all the way in.

To use Viking's leather stitch, turn the upper left dial to the color yellow. (Note: The slash line on the upper left dial is a stop. You can't turn past that point. Go in the other direction to get to the icon or color you want.) Turn the upper right and bottom right dial to yellow also. The upper left dial is what selects the particular stitch on the cam, the leather stitch in this case. The upper right dial selects stitch length, and the lower right dial selects stitch width. You can move the right dials within the color range. Experiment on a scrap of cloth to get the stitch size the way you want it. The leather stitch looks like a straight stitch with a block style edging to the right of the straight stitch. This is supposed to give a stronger stitch to the leather rather than a straight stitch by itself.
If you don't have the manual for your machine: Select which of the eight cams you want to use. All the cams are removed/installed by turning the upper left dial on machine front to the small dot. At the rear of the machine, pull/insert cam straight in or out and twist slightly as you push in or remove to find the sweet spot. Move the dial away from the small dot to lock the cam in.
Turn upper left dial to stitch type you want and match the other dials to that same color. Upper right controls stitch length, lower right controls width. Bobbin tension is controlled by the dial at front left of the machine, above the needle.
Cams A-C are the workhorse cams and the rest are embroidery stitches.Straight stitch, button and stitched zig-zag will work on any cam. These stitches do not rely on matching a color code. To use those three: To select straight stitch, on the upper left dial, choose the icon that looks like a buttonhole with a zig that trails off to the right. Select stitch length on upper right dial and turn the lower right dial to zero, going by number rather than color.
To select stitched zig zag, turn upper left dial to the broken zig zag icon (to the right of the straight stitch icon). Select stitch length and width.
To move the needle to the side for buttonhole stitching or other times when you want the needle off center, turn the upper left dial to the button icon. If stitching a button hole, set stitch length to zero and lower right dial to desired stitch width. Push in the small white button that's beneath the lower right dial in order to prevent the feed dogs from moving the fabric forward. Pushing that button in is also handy for putting cloth under the foot before sewing as it prevents snagging and is used for tacking.

The three front dials are as follows....left to right-Stitch width, type of stitch, and stitch length. The dial on the top adjust the top tension.

For straight stitch you want 0 stitch width, straight stitch, 3 for stitch length.

For zig zag you want turn your stitch width to how wide you want the zig zag, choose zig zag stitch, and choose how close you want the stitches to be on the stitch length dial. Practice on a piece of fabric. Usually for zig zag you will want to loosen your top tension a little bit.

If it was sewing correctly BEFORE the needle break...why did the needle break in the first place?...and what fixes did you make?
If it sewed properly...what changed?

Cut your upper thread close to the spool...make sure the presser foot is raised and pull the cut off thread section through/out of the machine from the needle area (sewing direction...do not pull the thread backwards!)

Clean out the bobbin area...remove any traces of lint or pieces of thread...look for any broken off needle pieces... brush the bobbin area out....then add a drop of sewing machine oil (but only if your manual says to oil that area).

Remove the needle plate to expose the feed dogs...brush/clean out that area too and add a drop of sewing machine oil...then secure the needle plate back on.
Replace the needle...do it again...yup...some needles arrive bad from the factory. Make sure the needle is inserted and positioned properly. Then thread the machine WITH the presser foot in raised position. (The thread needs to get seated into the upper tensions.)
..with the.presser foot down...thread the new needle.
Oh...and use the correct needle for the thread. (a universal 80/12 is standard).
Thread can cause issues too. Try a different bobbin, or maybe a different spool of thread to see if that makes a difference.