Hymer/mercedes S700 starline 2004
I have a .5 amp (half amp) discharge which drains all batteries in 24 hours. Motor engineers cannot find where it eminates from. Any suggestions?
I had the computer/charger (situated under drivers seat) replaced a few months ago for a similar problem. Worked fine till recently.
A half amp shouldn't drain a battery in 24 hrs it should last for several days. I have an Audi that has lots of toys and Ive unhooked the battery cable and put an amp meter in to test the draw and I have just under 400ma...or .4 amp and the battery will last for over a week if not run and start fine.
If you suspect the computer is draining the battery, unplug it. Test to see if the ½ amp draw disappears. If it does, there's your problem. CHECK all of the ground connections in that area and beyond, just one poor connection may be damaging the electronics.
A draw like that is only a few watts, it could be as simple as a compartment light, like a glove box type of space. On cars, an underhood or trunk light is commonly the fault. Check things like that first!
SOURCE: How do I stop the
Hi Guys,
I have had this problem several times and first was solved by claring leaves from two drains under battery. Second time I did the pollen filter thing with silicon as hophouse did above, it is looking good so far.
SOURCE: method of charging a 2004 Mercedes E320 battery
It is always safer to charge the battery out of circuit, Removal of one cable will insure you can safely charge without hurting electronics on board. Generally if your battery is already sufficiently charged it acts like a capacitor in the circuit and will prevent damage, but many battery chargers do not always put out a pure dc voltage and this can damage electonics.
SOURCE: Battery slowly discharges on my 2002 FXD when engine runns
So you're running off the battery instead of the charging system, check all your wires from the alternator to the regulator/rectifier for open connections or shorts to the frame. You could have a bad rectifier if it's separate from the regulator, you may also have a bad alternator, if you've got a multi-meter check the AC voltage between the ground and each of the three wires coming from the alternator (usually yellow). They should all be about the same, and measure over 16 V, increasing with RPMs. Hope that helps
SOURCE: Battery Get Discharged within few Minutes even after Full Charge
I have the same problem, and for now an external charger is the best solution. Also try resetting 4 times. I also got a new power supply, but problem persist. Good luck!!!
jav
SOURCE: battery keps discharging
Ok, i understand that you have replaced the alternator, but there seems to be a non charge state in this case. i recommend checking the charging system. use the procedure below to isolate this issue.
Wear protective eye wear and clothing and remove all jewelry when checking your battery and charging system. Jewelry is a good conductor of electricity and is not recommended. Most batteries wear out every 3 to 5 years and need to be replaced. Always replace your battery with an equal replacement battery to assure proper operation. Automotive batteries have a +positive terminal (red), - negative terminal (black). The battery in this illustration has a protective cover over the positive terminal to prevent short circuit in case of an accident. Electricity is stored in the battery and then supplied to the vehicle when the engine is not running. While the engine is running the vehicles alternator charges the battery for future use. (Note: never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. If the battery cable is disconnected from the battery a spark can be generated which can cause the battery to explode or a major electrical malfunction to occur.)
To check a battery surface voltage, remove the positive terminal protective cover. Connect the +positive side meter lead (red) to the positive side battery terminal. Connect the - negative (black) side meter lead to the negative battery terminal. With the vehicle not running and the car sitting over night the battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts.(You will need to use a voltmeter for this testing procedure)
The alternator is rotated by a drive belt driven by the vehicles engine while it is running. Electrical voltage and amperage are generated to recharge the battery and supply voltage to the electrical system of the car. The alternator is held in place with mounting bolts. There is a main electrical wire on the rear of the alternator that supplies voltage to a main voltage junction box. If your alternator is not charging properly, your battery will slowly drain down from operating all the electrical systems in your car and stop the car from running.(most non charge states will be the cause of a loose belt or a low tension rate, due to a mis-adjusted alternator. make sure you have enough tension in the belt for full rotation of the alt pulley)
Next, you will need to check the alternators output with the Amp meter.
Testing the amperage output of the alternator is good for measuring the amount (not the level) of voltage the alternator can produce. This test can be tricky because if the alternator is weak it can still show it as producing amperage. Which is good, but if the voltage is low, it will still allow the battery to go dead. To check the amperage output of an alternator an amp meter is needed. Once the meter is connected start the engine. Next turn on all electrical accessories and raise the engine idle to about 1200 RPM. The alternator should output the max amperage it was designed to produce. Example: a 90 amp alternator should output about 88 amps. Note: An alternator cannot sustain maximum output for long periods of time. If the alternator is forced to operate at maximum output it will overheat and fail. An alternator is designed to operate at max amperage output only for a reasonable amount of time.
((Connect the voltage meter lead the same way you would in a battery static voltage check, Start engine (do not drive) at engine idle the voltage should be between 13.6 to 14.3 volts. If not the alternator may need replacing.)))
NOTE----
((If all the above dose not isolate the actual issue, the likly culprit will be a drainage issue)).
Here is the procedure I use to isolate a battery drain. Remove negative battery cable from the battery. Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected. The test light will glow or "light" if there is a drain. If the "light or glow" is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If the "light or glow" is bright, then there is a large drain. That should be corrected. Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.
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