SOURCE: how to test your speaker
Units going into auto protect are usally due to open or dead short conditions to keep the system protected from blowing the final amps. based on what you suggested I woould test or change out the cables 1st.
SOURCE: Kef Q Series iQ1 problem
You may have broken the cross over, which is fixable by an service agent, or you may have damaged the voice coil in the mid driver. you can check this by sofly pushing the main driver in, making sure that you done push the cone, if there is a lot of resistance then you have damaged the voice coil, and you will need to replace the driver.
SOURCE: speaker disassembly
I'm going to try to heat it a little with a blow dryer to loosen the glue a little then pry, thanks for your suggestions again
SOURCE: The bass speaker doesnt work
OK, Bose owners out there listen up and
listen good. Here's the real scoop on 1.(getting access to the inside of most
bose subwoofers, 2.( repairing said subwoofer.
Follow these steps in removing the cover of
your subwoofer. Unscrew the two screws from the cover. (They are on the
input/output side of the cover) Remove the two knobs (Bass and treble volume).
On the opposite side of the cover, (put
those damn shoes back in the closet) there is a lockout tab that needs to be
swung out, it moves 90 degrees in a counter-clockwise direction and is located
under the center of the cover.
A small flat blade screwdriver works great
for swinging this tab out and will be necessary for the next step (the
screwdriver that is).
On the same side (opposite the input/output
side) there are two small tabs near the edges of the cover, one on the right
and it's counterpart on the left. If you look closely in the gap between the
cover and the sub itself, you will see these 3/8" wide tabs near the edges
and towards the top of the cover.
With the flat blade screwdriver, put the
blade between the cover and on the tab and pull down. Then with your hand
balled into a fist, gently hit that side of the cover towards the input/output
side. the cover will move only slightly but the tab should remain depressed.
Do the same procedure on the opposite side
of the cover and it will slide about a 1/2 to 3/4" towards the
input/output side and can then be removed by pulling it straight up and off of
the cabinet.
Yay! If you get this far without incident
then you are ready to implement repairs. In the case of the AM15's, normally
what happens is a resistor will open up and prevent the triac (turn-on device)
from firing.
The fuse is on the underside of the PC board and this above
mentioned resistor is a 100 ohm, surface mount "chip" resistor on the
top side of the PC board. It will not appear to be bad but trust me, if the
fuse is good and the sub will not turn on... replace it!
You don't have to use a chip resistor since
as a consumer you may have a rough time finding one but a 1/8 watt or 1/4 watt
resistor you can find at any Radio Shack will work just dandy in this
application.
Cut the leads short and solder the two cut
leads to the pads on the circuit board where the chip resistor is currently
sitting. The chip resistor will be black, about 1/4" long, 1/8" wide
and have "101" printed on it's surface. On some models they used two
200 ohm resistors in parallel but the result is the same. One 1/4w axial lead
resistor will do just fine. Plug it up and give it a try. (Before you replace
the cover).
Secondly, if the fuse is blown on a
"Lifestyle" Bose subwoofer, contrary to popular belief, it blew for a
reason. The speaker outputs and the subwoofer output devices are TDA7294 IC's
with TIP142 and TIP147 Motorola transistors used as current supplements to
these said output devices. If the fuse is blown and replacing it only results
in another blown fuse then chances are good that one or more of these are
blown. In some cases it's very easy to tell, the front of these IC's will be
blown off and/or you will see burn marks on the board where they are mounted.
These devices are located inside the amp portion of the subwoofer. (The black
metal heatsink underneath the input/preamp PCB. As a consumer, if the fuse is
blown, unless you are familiar with soldering techniques and troubleshooting
electronics, leave this to the pro's. It isn't as easy as you might think and
you can destroy the PCB in your attempts to repair it.
This was from a Guru of Bose systems at ecoustics.com: Mark Burgess
SOURCE: speaker repair
Contact MMats Pro Audio at 561-842-0600. They can re-cone it for you, or sell you the re-cone kit. If that does not work for you, contact MWA Speaker Parts in Tuscon - 520-647-7193. They can sell you a re-cone kit, or they can direct you to a speaker repair center near you. A third option would be to contact Sundown Audio in Troutman, NC. They may be able to re-cone it for you.
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