Takes forever to grind coffee beans

Humm, G-3 grinders. Okay what common problems I've come across:
* Wrong setting for grind on label. Usually means worn out grinder burrs. But this does not happen often unless you are using it to grind commercial amounts of coffee? It's a retail level grinder meant to be user friendly and simple to use. Say grind a bag of beans once every 10 mins or so even with customers lined up to grind there own. Running a G-3 constantly is usually done by upcoming coffee vendors whom are using it for small flavored bean batches. But expect the burr plates to only last 3 to 6 months. We used to change it every month till the boss bought a bigger pro grinder. (whew!)
* Out of calibration (for grind) This usually happens as soon as it's installed. Either the grinder got banged (Dropped?) around or the lock nut was not tighten down. If caught quickly then it's a simple adjustment. Left unchecked will wear out the burrs or crack the plate.
* Trips out breaker. This is common at retail stores as it's located in a shelf rack that really does not have the required outlets. Many times there is a brewer(s) connected to the same line. It only trips out when one or both brewers are heating and the grinder is running a very fine grind.
* Trips out breaker when grinding espresso or very fine grinds. Worn burrs or slim chance the grinder was miss calibrated (but you would catch this when first installed)
* Shocks the customer. Dry climates or heavy air conditioning will build up static electricity at the chute. There usually a small chain attached to the chute to prevent this. Attach a SHORT metal chain or thin cable to the metal case of the grinder and add a metal clip to attach to the coffee bag. Many use a chain and clip just short enough to keep the bag positioned under the chute. Note many coffee bags come with bag clips. Just make sure the clip and chain can't get stuck in the grinder.
* Not working. This is usually the on/off switch as it gets beat up the most. There is sometimes a safety micro switch under the chute to sense if there is a bag there. I've found may have been defeated.
* No power, check cord, breaker (GFRI) outlet, Plug prongs if broken off or bent.
* power but no motor hum. Tripped thermal breaker (usually a red button on side or back. Some models may have it inside on the motor itself. Call for service to check.
* Turns on but loud hum (may be hot too). Burrs stuck. This could be from adjusting grinder while grinding beans and adjusting to a fine setting. Grinding finer slows down the beans feeding the burrs. Large settings flood the burrs with a lot of beans. Adjustments are usually done when the grinder hopper is completely empty. If loaded and turned down from coarse to fine grind the beans already in the burrs get crushed and stuck between the plates thus locking them in. It may be possible to clear the hopper and open up the grinder to its coarsest setting to jog out the crushed beans. Otherwise call for service to have the burrs cleared manually.
*Finally check with your vendor if your still having problems.

Aloha! ukeboy57

no- but you should be able to adjust the grind fineness by moving the setting to make it larger

You should call your vendor for service. Especially if this equipment is on loan from them.
*** The following is for information only. Equipment should be serviced by a qualified tech. ****
* Bunn.com has a free download of their manuals.
* Check the parts diagram if you have assembled everything properly. Often people forget the 'button' (looks like a nickel with a dent in it.)
* Perform the following adjustments WITHOUT beans as they will prevent you from hearing to any problems.
* Opening the burrs too wide (turning too far counter clockwise) will have the plate scraping the cover and you get metal flaking along with a teeth chattering/grinding sound. Turn the adjustment several times CLOCK-WISE and try again. If you still get grinding then take everything apart and check for objects in the burr area then reassemble according to the parts diagram. Make sure you have the correct model and diagram.
* Closing the burrs too tight (Clock-wise) will have the burrs touch and lock up together. There is another loud grinding sound but not as bad as hitting the case. Though back it off fast as you will ruin the plates if they over heat.
* Note; Once you get things in range. (No loud metal chatter or grinding sounds. Just a nice hum and whirling sound. The you will need to calibrate the plate. Go ahead and add a few table spoons of beans. Keep it to a very small amount as you will probably end up dumping them (a waste). I use 'expired' or old beans for this.
* Calibration is done by grinding a few beans at a time. You must clear the beans completely before adjusting to the next setting. Keep turning the dial to the fine setting. Keep grinding small doses until you get to the level of grind that matches the finest setting on the dial (usually Turkish grind which is almost a powder.) Adjust this back (Larger) a bit as most people end up burning the beans at this fine a grind. It also takes forever to grind a whole bag, even with only 10 oz of beans. Lock down the adjustment screw once your satisfied with the grind matching the dial.
* Note; If you find the motor trips out often then back off the grinder for a larger (course) grind.
*Finally check with your vendor if your still having problems.

Aloha! ukeboy57

Most grinders, especially the larger professional models will eventually need to have the grinding wheels (set of 2) changed out. They do wear down. The grinder will struggle as the burrs on the wheel dull out. This increases the time it takes to grind coffee and puts a heavy electrical load. Burnt out switches, tripping breaker, overheating, and burnt coffee grounds on espresso size are all symptoms of a worn burr set.
It's common to find; stones, nails, jewelry, and small loose things found around coffee counters in the grinding wheels or burrs. Have a qualified operator remove all beans and hopper to check and brush out burr set. This should be done every day.
Another cause is very oily beans. Sometimes poorly roasted beans come out extremely oily which will gum up everything from the burrs, Moving parts, and electrical components. Disassembly of entire machines may be necessary.
ukeboy57

you must screw off the burr holder plate screw (in center) you will order one special screw, drill shaped, when the burrs roll it will mix and take down the coffee beans. That is solution i applied to many grinders. PS: beware the direction of burrs must be coordinated with new screw.

HI
Yes the burrs will wear out. They can be replaced. To remove the outer burr. Twist the bean hopper counterclockwise until it stops. Lift the bean hopper out. There is a cream colored ring with 2 tabs that will lift out holding the outer burr. To get the inner cone burr out is a little more difficult. We use a vice grip and grab the burr, and lock the pliers to it. Then with a quick movement clockwise on the pliers, you loosen it. Then clockwise unscrew the burr. When you install the new burr, it truns on counter clockwise until it stops. Insert the new outer burr. Push down so the tabs will lock in. Install the bean hopper into the correct slots ( 1 large tab and 1 small tab). Twist clockwise to turn on and test. Remember it must be grinding to turn to a finer grind but can be turned to a coarser grind any time.

As I can see, what happens is that some coffee grains stucks in the way from the upper pot to the grinding wheel. This is not something usual, but possible if coffee grains are too big and are placed across the entry of the mill. Try cleaning more deep with some old toothbrush. Look for a clean and even surface of the duct.
Other cause might be a loosen mill hub/grinding wheel off the motor shaft, which would require dissassemble of the appliance to be repaired.

It sounds as though your grind is out of adjustment. The grinder is probably set too fine. I have not worked on a G3 grinder but I would think it is like the Bunn G2. On the front knob you will find 2 small set screws and one larger adjustment screw (in the middle of the knob)
1. Set the selector knob to finest setting (Espresso or Turkish)
2. Loosen the 2 set screws about 2 turns.
3. Activate the start switch (you must activate the "bag switch" behind the chute)
4. With the grinder running, SLOWLY turn the center screw clockwise only until you hear a very slight whirring sound (this is the burrs touching).
5. Then, back off the center screw counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn, shut off grinder and re-tighten the set screws.
Check the grind in the "drip" setting by running a few beans through... the grounds should be about the consistency of sand. You should get a better flow through the machine with the grind adjusted properly. You may want to check the cleanliness of the hopper in the top... I have seen these dirty enough to impede the falling of the beans to the grinder.
Also, whenever you remove (for cleaning) the 2 larger screws that hold on the front "plate", be sure to put them back in evenly... kind of like one would with a wheel on a car- Finger-tight then slightly tighten each on a little at a time (back and forth) until tight.
Hope this helps.

Rotate the bean hopper counter clockwise until it stops. Lift it off. Remove the outer burr with the 2 wings and clean under the burr. Clean the opening going to the chute for ground coffee(inside where the burr was).
Install the outer burr. Install the bean hopper. Rotate the bean hopper to the French press grind (coarsest) and operate the grinder. This will clean the burrs and the passages. If it starts to clog, repeat the last part to clean the burrs and passage. It must be grinding to go to a finer setting, but you can go to a coarser setting any time. Another thing. Turn the grinder upside down (empty) and rotate the bean hopper back and forth to clean the threads of the adjusting burr..

If it is any consolation, mine just did the same thing, now takes too long to grind and it is way to fine dispite a thorough cleaning by disassembly.