I need to order the plastic sprocket. - Remington Polesaw Wizard

the sprocket will be available from bearing sales specialists (CBC, bearing services and the like ) all you need is the old sprocket so that they can get the pitch and tooth width right

Notes on replacing drive sprocket on Genie 2042 belt drive garage door opener.
The unit originally came with a cast metal sprocket disk with a plastic sleeve insert that formed the sprockets themselves. The plastic insert's sprockets shattered when I tried opening the garage door that had frozen shut with ice. Genie's service assistant was of no help, as she suggested that I remove the entire rail then call them back. Removal of the rail was totally unnecessary. I purchased an all metal sprocket designed for the 2042 from an on-line supplier. Neither the owner's manual nor on-line instructions were available to assist me. I followed these steps:

1.With the door open, loosen the tension on the belt by turning the bolt in the tension assembly located on the rail opposite side of the motor. Slide the belt off the pulley and let the belt hang.
2.The sprocket housing is located on top of the motor. Unscrew the two Phillips screws that hold the sprocket housing onto the motor assembly.
3.Using a screwdriver, force the cover up. The cover is on a hinge-like appendage that is riveted onto the rail frame. With the housing pried up, the belt and sprocket can be seen.
4.Pull the belt out of the housing to allow the old sprocket to be removed. Be careful to locate the black plastic bushing/spacer on top of the old sprocket and save it for the new sprocket.
5.Install the new sprocket and bushing/spacer into the motor shaft along with the belt.
6.Replace the two Phillips screws on the sprocket cover.
7.Place the belt back on the tension assembly and tighten to manufacturer's specifications.
8.If the motor won't run from the wall switch, the up/down limits need to be reset. The motor will move the garage door up and down using the control buttons on the bottom of the motor unit. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on setting the up/down limits, which include holding the "set" buttons for over 5 seconds once the garage door is in the desired up and down locations.

I know this post is old but I found a solution. The axle going to the sprocket is locked up with something sticky. You have take out the two screws holding the white plastic piece around the sprocket. Then loosen the small bolt on the big wheel on the other side. Remove the big wheel. Try to push the axle through to the other side. If it doesn't budge easily, hammer it out. That's what I had to do. Then clean it up real good with solvent, like alcohol. Lube it with grease and put it all back together. Worked for me.

What do you mean by drive belt. If your talking about the serpentine belt, it should have an auto tensioner. Same goes for the timing belt. There is no adjustment. If the belt is loose then it needs to be replaced.
Replacing timing belt,Sienna 1998:
1.Disconnect battery (-) cable and plastic wiper washer cowl assembly
2.Remove spark plugs and put all wirings,cables out of the way
3.Drain coolant (cold) and remove upper hose
4.remove front right tire and wheel plastic fender apron
5.jack up engine under oil pan with rubber,towel or wood slightly
6.remove right engine support rod and its bracket
7.remove all drive belts.Examine condition;Label if re-using
8.remove plastic upper timing belt cover & gasket
9.remove crankshaft pulley bolt-use the ff. methods: a.air impact wrench or Toyota Special service tool-best b.chain wrench on pulley then breaker bar/socket on bolt-good c.open fly wheel cover,jam screwdriver on gear teeth then unbolt-tough d.breaker bar/socket on bolt, jam bar tip on floor, lower car then "start" engine -smart
10.remove pulley by hand or use carefully 2 prybars then remove plastic lower T.B.coverand gasket
11.reinstall bolt and turn engine clockwise to align timing marks:one on each camshaft sprocket and one on the crankshaft sprocket
12.remove T.B. tensioner spring-2 bolts loosen alternately then keep upright
13.remove crankshaft sprocket guard then the sprocket, then the belt.
14.Examine belt condition for damage and correct cause of damage if any
15.remove idler T.B.pulleys & check for smooth operation/contamination/leak
16.check all oil seals, water pump leaks,etc
17.Check T.B.tensioner spring for oil leak and tension by pressing push rod against hard object-there should be no movement or leak
18.Compress push rod using vise, align rod hole with outer hole then insert small nail, pin or wire to keep it there then reinstall along with other parts removed
19.Install T.B.carefully.No twist, stretch,prying ,oil, moisture, bending
20.Handturn engine 720 deg.clockwise, feel for resistance , and then see timing marks still re-align
21.Reinstall plastic covers and gaskets,drive belts.etc in reverse order 21.


Hope this helps.

http://www.ecrater.com/p/6962460/024-026-stihl-325-sprocket-w-needle-cage-38076-2?keywords=stihl%20caged%20needle%20bearingthis bearing(on the right) fits inside the sprocket (on the left)allowing minimal friction. Without it, the sprocket spins so fast it would melt all the plastic around the sprocket(seen it)

The plastic is to stop the chain from touching the spokes, it cannot cause this problem, either the chain is not on a sprocket correctly or the rear cluster(sprockets) is not working.
Some spray lube may help, but if it is new, take it back to the shop.

Google a business called " the parts drop" call and talk to Britt.
I deal with them all the time, Good business to deal with and the part it pretty inexpensive. He will have what you need.

The model 028 Stihl Chainsaw was in production for many years and the clutch drum sprocket (or chain drive) came in three (3) versions over the years of production.
For several reasons, it is best to take the saw to an authorized Stihl Dealership (Locate your nearest dealership HERE) for production identification, evaluation of cost-effectivness and availability of parts.

Reason 1) The first-generation 028 saw is approaching 30 years old.

Reason 2) Extreme heat caused by a locked chain-brake can damage the engine case and render the saw unfixable (part support is going away due to age).

Reason 3) The shear cost of parts and amount of time it would take for a DIY repair.

Reason 4) The plastic gears you mentioned are the drive system that make the chain's oil pump work. If the plastic is melted, the oil pump is likely to be damaged as well. In most cases the oil pump cover gets damaged ... the list goes on and on.

Genuine Stihl parts are not sold online and aftermarket parts would be a gamble. It's up to you to decide if the cost, time and effort are worth it.
Hope this helps.

I have a 1265 and took the cover off (unplug first).
There are screws securing the cover: 2 on each side at top, 2 at either end bottom.
Then I disconnected the chain.
There are 3 hex head screws securing the drive gear assembly (of course they thread from the inside out which makes taking them out a bit time consuming). Take care not to damage the circuit board or other electronic connections.
Then at the bottom of the shaft is the "limit switch assembly" that is clipped into the metal housing. Squeeze the 2 on the outside and it should swing free.
Then at the very end of the shaft there is another plastic gear. It is secured by a 3 prong plastic clip. Pull the outside clips away from the shaft while pushing the center piece back through the shaft. The gear should come off and you can now remove the gear and sprocket assembly up through the assembly.
call 800 528 2817 and order the "Gear and Sprocket Assembly".
I am waiting for the part and assume we reverse the order above to reinstall.

it may be the tensioner you are talking about. get a wrench that would fit the blot holding it and it will release it so you can remove it.