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Possibly a tstat issue. Run system until satisfied, once satisfied indoor fan shuts down compressor still runs remove tstat face plate and see if compressor shuts down. Another issue could be a sticking contactor for compressor. With a meter you could check at the contactor to see if you lose your 24volts for cooling but contactor remains pulled in.
Normal ACs (non inverter) work in the following way
The AC compressor runs continuously till set temperature is reached in the room
The compressor then switches off, but the blower fan in the wall mounter unit keeps running. Durint this time the AC fan blows air out at Room temperature (which feels warmer)
When temperature of room rises then compressor starts running again. During theis period the air coming out from the inner uny is cooled by the condenser coils
And the process is repeated.... as long as you keep AC running
Ac works this way throught the operation period.
Now if you feel that your AC keeps switching off and on very frequently check the following
Your AC may be over powered for room *for example a 1.5 ton AC installed in a scenario where 1 ton is enough)
If there is voltage fluctuation in your area then the compressor may keep shutting don on large voltage swings
Solution: Get a Stabilizer
You have set the temperature setting too high. Max temp suggested for ACs is 25 degree Celsius, any higher will mean the compressor shuts down often. Remember every compressor shutdown and startup draws a high starting current
Set AC temperatures between 22 and 24 degrees Celsius
The thermostat/ Temperature sensor is faulty
Get unit inspected by Authorized technician
There is dust buildup on the outer unit / compressor unit. The dust buildup may cause overheating by preventing efficient heat exchange, This may lead to overheating of compressor and it shuts down to, prevent damage to itself
Get unit serviced by Authorized technician
The fan motor of the outer unit is not working properly
Get unit inspected by Authorized technician
Remember to get the AC serviced at least thrice a year to ensure smooth operation
Cool Thoughts... Cool Life !!!
how long a power cord do you have and what size conductors are in it. when a a/c shuts down do to thermostat reaching its setting then trys to start back up shortly the pressures dont have time to equalize resulting in high amp draw. if fans runs all the time instead of shutting off with compresser it will call for cooling fast. i have a 2003 cardinal with 2 a/c's the smaller one has a continous fan & the larger one cycles fan with compressor. i have power cord rated for 50 amps. 110 to 115 is still a low vooltage condition.
There is not a point setting for air compressors. The pressure switch can be adjusted. Remove the cover from the pressure switch. Adjust the nut tighter for a higher cut off pressure or looser for a lower cut off pressure. It sounds like the compressor is trying tostart under load. If the unloader valve is not working, the compressor will draw excess amperage and do what you describe. The unloader valve releases the pressure in the cylinder at the end of the run cycle so the compressor can start the next run cycle under no load.
im not sure what tstat you have? if you still have your tstat book it well tell you how to set it up. may be it was not programed when installed. i hope that helps
try running up this motor when its not installed on the compressor,, if it still blows the trips the motor is faulty,, if it runs ok, but hums when reconted to the compressor the compressor if far to tight for the motor to turn the compressor,,,you can not reset the points in a breaker trip they trip at a set curent if the motor is pulling more amps than the trip is set for it will trip the trip to turn off the curent, the motor will pull far more amps than it should if its over loaded thats why its humming its trying to spin up it but cant so it just keeps pulling more and more amps till the trip cuts out
The first thing to check is your breaker box. There should be one double breaker for the air handler unit, that's the inside unit, and one double breaker for the compressor, that's the outside unit. Check both breakers. If you're not sure if they've be thrown, click them toward the outside of the breaker box (off position) and then click them toward the inside of the breaker box (on position). If the breakers are on and you still are not getting any A/C take a look at your compressor, (outside unit). If the fan is running at least you're getting power. However, your compressor down inside the unit may not be getting power or it may need to be replaced. The compressor has a start-up cap. If this cap goes bad or the wires from this cap fry or corrode away, this will also keep the compressor from starting but the fan will still run. If the fan is not running it could be caused by a faulty relay inside the compressor cabinet. This relay is supposed to open and close based on a low voltage signal from the thermostat. I believe it's roughly 24 volts. This relay switches on and off the 240 volts for the compressor and the compressor fan. Often this relay goes bad or the wires leading up to it fry. If you?re going to work on the unit yourself make sure all power is shut off. There should be a shutoff switch on the outside wall near the compressor. I?d also shut the breakers off.
Relay for the compressor may be stuck ( Contacts welded) both the fan and the compressor should operate at the same time. Have the relay(s) checked and possibly replaced.
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