I re-installed all new parts in my 3 handle shower including new seats inside the pipe and I still get a leak out of the spout when handles are turned to off position. Is there a special way to do this?

If your new Delta single handle shower valve won't shut off, it could be due to an issue with the valve itself or with the installation. Some possible causes include a misaligned handle, debris in the valve body, or a faulty cartridge. It is best to check the installation instructions and ensure that everything is properly seated and aligned. If that does not solve the issue, you may need to contact Delta customer service for further assistance or consider hiring a plumber to diagnose and fix the problem.

You need to replace the tub diverter/spout. There are two kinds, I hope you have the kind with
an allen head set screw on the bottom side of the spout near the shower wall. These are super
easy to replace ! Loosen the set screw, twist the spout a little and it should slide off. When installing
the new spout, smear some vaseline on the copper pipe sticking out, this will help seal the new O rings in the spout.

The other kind of spout has pipe threads in it. They can be a little more tricky. I got called to a
house one time. The plastic female threads on the spout cracked when the plumber installed it.
The water ran down the inside of the wall and did damage down stairs. The leak could not be seen
until the sheet rock down stairs fell down from being soaked. You need to put some pipe dope on the threads, then tighten the spout on by hand, so as not to scratch it with a pump pliers.

I hope this helps !

the shower valve is leaking and filling the shower spout

Check these items:

1. If you installed new faucet seats, did you add a little pipe joint compound to the threads before installing them?

2. Make sure the shower diverter is in the off position and you're not seeing water leaking from the spout that could be coming from the shower pipe or residual water from the shower head.

3. Make sure you have the correct faucet washers - some or tapered and some are flat and must fit the stem counter bore correctly and that the counter bore isn't damaged or the stem shaft isn't bent. Make sure the waskers are the correct hardness.

4. Make sure the screws that secure the faucet washers are tight, but not too tight. It doesn't hurt to add a little pipe joint compound to the screws.

Tub spout has an o ring that pipe goes through for seal. So it should go by it.

yes they do,part #1224

replacing just the handle cannot fix the leak and common sense should tell you that.... try turning off the water to the diverter (thru access panel on opposit wall or main water valve for the home) and then replacing the stem or cartridge inside the diverter -- this is what controls water temp, pressure, and is responsible for any leaks you may have...

Yes, there is a non-replaceable plastic restrictor device screwed into the tub spout outlet of the faucet body. It's purpose is to force the flow down to the spout for when the spout diverter is not closed. It keep water from rcoming out of the shower head when the tub spout is also discharging.

This is all fine and dandy where the water supply is clean without sediment. A co-worker of mine had one of these and old galvanized piping. After 3 years, it clogged up. She got a 'deal' from a handyman plumber to replace with an identical faucet. She will have the problem again. If she had spent the money to fix it right, she would have had a single handle mixing valve put in. If it clogs, you can just pull the cartidge from the body, clean it and put it back in. Now she will have to cut into the wall again, get the plumber to replace the 2 handled unit and patch the wall again.

Or, she could have the plumber drill out/remove the restrictor but then she might get water out of both outlets at the same time....."pay me know or pay me later"....repalcing the mixing valve with a scald prevention single handle valve (with remodel plate) is the BEST long term solution.

Fred Grable
Chicago
(Engineer and Ex-Master Plumber)

There is a threaded stem that passes through the spout and attaches to the white plastic diveter valve. If you are starting from scratch (everything apart), you can put it back together in this order:
1) Place the white plastic diverter inside the spout. the circular side with the black round washer should face the the wall side of the shower (mating up against the threads for the water pipe).
2) The stem can now be inserted from the top and into the notched section of the white plastic diverter valve. The threaded end of the stem shoud be outside of the spout (from the top side).
3) A round black washer fits over the threads. It should sit right where the threads end. Dont push it all the way on to the unthreaded portion of the stem.
4) Screw the threaded knob onto the threads.

Should be ready to install now. Including the spout itself, there are 5 parts and are configured in this order from top to bottom.
1) Female threaded knob (the knob for operating the spout)
2) Threaded stem (threads on top)
3) Round black washer
4) Spout
5) Whit plastic diverter valve.

Mine leaks when I turn on the shower, thus reducing shower pressure. I looks like a poor design to me. The stem is not a tight fit in the spout and this allows the diverter to "wobble". The washer on the diverter valve does not seat tightly and allows water to leak out the tub spout when showering. I would replace the spout.