Living Air Model XL-15C: the red-neon FT ionizer bulb does light.

Question edited for clarity, added a few Capital letters and 'light' instead of the American spelling of something that is not 'full fat' or 'full featured', or in other words 'lite'..

Remove the plates and the light and reinstall them, making sure they are fully locked home. Some buzzing is normal as the electricity generates the negative ions and the electrostatically charged plates attract dust , pollens and allergens.

https://www.google.com/search?q=alpine+living+air+Xl+buzzing

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The only other light I'm aware of is the light in the back of the machine attached to the radio frequency ionizer. This light lets you know that both of the ionizers including the needle point ionizer are working. When the light is off, it means the ionizers need cleaning or service. When I clean my machines, I always clean off both ionizers w/ a 50/50 solution of Ammonia w/ a paper towel. I do this the same time I clean the ozone plate. If you're machine is still under the 3 year warranty, you can send it back to be fixed for no charge except shipping. I hope this helps.

How long have you owned the machine? If bulb is out, (the one deep inside the machine) it means the RF ionizer or needle point ionizer isn't working. Clean both of them and you should get the bulb to come back on.

You have a three year warranty on the machine. Send it back so they can fix it at no cost. It will only cost you about $15 to ship it to them.

OK- The plate needs brushing with a bristle brush to get the oxidized crystals and grime off it. If you don't, it will not create ozone. I never use water any more, it rusts the plate eventually. Rust also stops the process. I use rubbing alcohol. Cheap and safer than ammonia...MUCH safer. Blow dry. The only bulb is the radio wave ionization indicator bulb, attached to the round antenna-looking thing. You should wipe the ionizers off with alcohol every 6 months too. If they are gunked up they don't work nearly as well. Look up the Living Air Classic manual.

That's a needle-point ionizer, should thread into a little arm/fitting in the fairing forward/front of the fan blades. The red wire (high voltage) should attach to this little arm (probably with a spade terminal). It provides the high-power ionization used to attract particulate air pollutants out of the air.

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Check the fuse. You may need a new one.

look through the front grill while its "on" you should see a glow from a neon lamp inside. If its not on chances are the circuit card is dead (should have about 350VDC plate voltage).
I have a used but good board if anyone needs one.
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IONIZERS to not PURIFY indoor air. IONS are either NEGATIVE or POSITIVE. In this case, the NEGATIVE IONS are the 'GOOD GUYS!"

An ionizer will usually put some negative ions into the air while trapping, just like positive/negative magnets would do- SOME of your airborne live contaminates onto a metal plate inside the ionizer. When you pull out the plate with this smorgasborg of contaminates to wipe it, some of them can go airborne again, plus you have a dirty cloth ripe with contaminates on which you should then throw away. You haven't PURIFIED your air-you've just added some negative ions to your air, which will make your air feel light and lively- but still not PURIFIED.

Our SUN AIRE purifiers not only PURIFY indoor air SAFELY and EFFECTIVELY like SUNLIGHT, but one of the side-benefits is that we replenish your NEGATIVE ION balance in your air because of our SUNLIGHT process of purifying your air.

We DO NOT LIVE in our ductwork, therefore, our SUN AIRE purifiers purify your air in your living spaces FIRST and then the allotropic oxygen can be sucked through your ductwork.

POINT-OF-CONTACT is the key to our SUN AIRE purifiers effectiveness. We recommend you place your SUN AIRE purifier as FAR AWAY from your cold air return as possible because we want you to use the allotropic oxygen FIRST, before it's sucked through your ductwork.

Thanks for your question. Please let us know if we may assist you.

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