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Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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Kenmore heavy duty extra large capacity washer will not drain or spin. model #13212200

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  • Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.13212200&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If it neither drains nor spins, the first thing to check is the Lid Switch. This prevents the machine from draining and spinning if the lid is open.

I assume that you cannot hear the motor trying to turn.

See the following for how to access the console and Lid Switch connection.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=6f8112b458c05fcc8f6d1a4139b9a723

Following is a Whirlpool installation and maintenance PDF on top load, direct drive washers. It has a description of how to by-pass the switch.

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, remove the two plastic clips from the console,

remove the two screws under the clips, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire,

jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.13212200&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

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Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

It's likely the the switch was going bad and finally stopped working. following is the easiest test.

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This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

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