The spongy rubber around the speaker cone has come away/disintegrated and of course they can`t be used. I also noticed the front spongy cover has disintegrated. Do I have a problem with bugs or something. I`ve had the speakers for about twenty years and even them they were second hand

The only thing you might need to buy beside the gasket is any rubber parts that have been damaged by the leaking oil.
Check your radiator hoses, heater hoses, and vacuum lines, because motor oil will "rot:" rubber.
You need only replace hoses that are "spongy"and are wet with oil.
Be blessed.

Dear Rob,
Really Thankful for the detailed description for the Speaker Repair.
It really helped me a lot. I have a unusual situation here with me. I have dissected the whole console and found the outer band of the speaker has just come off....have attached photos to make it clear. does the outer speaker cone will make a difference or i will have to replace the speakers itself.....when i checked pressing the speaker down and played the distortion had gone....but while playing without holding the distortion would come back....Hope you can help me in this situation....Thanks in Advance.....

Remove the protecting grill in front. Check if the cone is still connected to the rubber band. If not, remove the screws around the speaker. Open the casing itself. Do not forget the screw in the middle of the battery compartment. Remove the bottom cover. Disconnect the 2 wires on the speaker and take out the speaker. It will come out with the plastic protection around it. Looking at the cone now, push up the Carton cone and keep it in place by putting some tissue paper or small cloth underneath. Clean the cone first. Use some rubber cement on the outer edges of the cone and press the rubber back on the cone. Let it dry for an hour and then remove the tissue / cloth, so the cone goes back to its normal position.You can use some extra rubber (those pre-glued strips that you would use to fix a bicycle tire) to make it extra strong. Remount everything back in place and voila....it works again!If your cone is not damaged, the casing most probably does not seal good anymore. Tighten all screws a little more and use plastic electrical tape all around to seal all joints. The bass is produced inside the casing itself and pushed out via a horn. If it is not closed off well, your bass sounds grumpy.

whats the question ?

You can get the foam or rubber surrounds on Ebay including the glue. Sellers website has a video demonstration how to do it as well.

Hi

You will need to take the dash cover off. Just get a #20 torx and you can do it. The speaker is attached to the underside of the panel.Due to design choices like cheap paper cones and foam surrounds, after a few years of use, midranges don't sound great and almost invariably disintegrate. Then you get awful buzzing and crackling.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Hello kagato_morri,

While it's certainly possible to replace the surrounds, whether it's economical to do so is another question. For very high-end speakers, there are often "repair kits" available to replace spiders, cones, surrounds and for some, even the voice coils. But such parts are usually not available for your run-of-the-mill speakers.

If the speakers are otherwise in good condition, and you are willing to spend some time with them, you can use an adhesive foam to construct a new surround. A product called "shoe goo" makes a good permanent bond. It's a super strong rubber cement and will hold up under the stresses of the moving speaker cone.

Hope this helps.

Contact MMats Pro Audio at 561-842-0600. They can re-cone it for you, or sell you the re-cone kit. If that does not work for you, contact MWA Speaker Parts in Tuscon - 520-647-7193. They can sell you a re-cone kit, or they can direct you to a speaker repair center near you. A third option would be to contact Sundown Audio in Troutman, NC. They may be able to re-cone it for you.

Hello stoge52,

Many people do their own speaker repairs and it is many times perfectly satisfactory. The folks who do a lot of it are musicians who seem to bang their equipment around quite frequently.

The problem with your JL sounds like the dust cover and not the cone itself, so you are lucky in that respect. Repairing the cone is more involved and it's rather tricky to duplicate the thickness, rigidity, and original elasticity of the cone. It's usually best to simply replace the cone, a process called "reconing". But gluing the dust cover is perfectly acceptable and not much of a job at all. Don't try super glue. It won't work. I'm not sure about rubber cement, though, but I've never heard of anyone using it. Many pros use silicone sealant. Either black or clear looks best for speaker repair. A somewhat better product is a tennis shoe repair product called "Shoe Goo". It's a little lighter and remains more pliable than silicone sealant, making it a better choice for lighter speakers. You can usually find "Shoe Goo" at larger sporting goods stores. If you want to use something that is made especially for gluing speakers, here's a link to a product called "Prosound Loudspeaker Recone Adhesive" and is advertised as the same black adhesive as that used by many major speaker manufacturers. It's $19.99 for 8 fl oz, more expensive than silicone sealant. Is it better? I don't know. But if it were MY JL, I'd probably spring for it.

http://www.prosoundservice.com/m9_view_item.html?m9:item=PROSND-RECONEGLUE8OZ

You may want to gently remove the dust cover entirely from the speaker and make sure that there are not any tears in the cone itself. If there are, you should repair them first.

Also, when you reglue the dust cover, wait a MINIMUM of 24 hours for the glue/sealant to set up and cure properly. If you start the sub thumping before the glue has fully cured, you'll have the same problem again. One other thing, use just enough glue/sealant to do the job. Don't think that more is better. A consistent thin layer on the entire surfaces being joined is best. A gob here and there will not hold for very long.

The alternative is to send it out for repair. And since it is a JL, I would not send it anywhere but JL. Be advised that is not going to be cheap. And it's going to be time consuming. Probably at least 25-50% of the cost of a new sub and probably a minimum of 3-4 weeks, sometimes longer. And don't forget, you'll pay shipping both ways.

Hope this helps.